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Since it doesn't seem to appear in any of the usual suspect repop catalogs, I'm looking for one. Until then, duct tape or velcro is just gonna have to do. Or maybe we get out the MIG and try to reconstitute the attachment points. Any ideas? Thanks, Jess

The big tube (2 1/8, 3 1/2 collectors) Hookers hit everything taller than a snake's ass. They also require a hole in the passenger inner fender apron. I've been through two sets. The latest are already flat under the cross member. For a daily driver I recommend the smaller flavors.

Here's an in-car vid from the semi-annual Forest Lane Reunion Cruise last Saturday night. [video=youtube]

I would say they should all be the same distance (to the 'full' mark from the top stop). The oil reservoir height relative to the deck should always be the same, regardless of how deep and wide the reservoir is, no?

Signed with Heacock. No claims so nothing to add. But they give a discount to MCA members. The policy requires locked storage and only occasional trips out for cruises and the like. They have an optional rider for more frequent stuff I think. Some advice: You should record all the phone calls...

You need resistors for the LED bulbs to 'fool' the flasher into thinking incandescents are installed. Google "LED resistor flasher ".

Last trip to the drive in the throwout bearing started singing way offkey. So we dropped the tranny and, while it was out decided it was an opportune time to trade out the 4.71 3rd member (original N-Case) with a spare regular center section set up with much more street-friendly 3.91s. Got it...

Haven't seen that before. Mine (Ram Air/4 Speed) looks like the other one. Attached is the page from the Ford Parts Catalog that shows both Ram Air and non-Ram Air setups.

I always check springs out when they come up for sale just because they are so hard to find. It looks like the spring on the right is a ram air spring with the flattened surface. I don't need it, but the price seems reasonable. They are generally unobtainable. http://tinyurl.com/kugv4xn

Here! :cool: My story: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-the-odyssey-begins-resumes Photo gallery: http://www.flickr.com/71jcode

My J-code was not only my first musclecar, it was my first car. September of 1973.

Fired it up and listened to it rumble and drank in the rich smell of hydrocarbons. *It was raining today. We don't do rain.* dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana

(Sorry for cross-posting from Individual Build section, but I like this thread) A fresh update. Last weekend was to be another Forest Lane Reunion Cruise-In, so we put 15-20 hours color sanding and polishing, and updating the week before. Highlights: Took the valuable DOOE water pump (the seal...

Like it. Want it. Where is it again? ;)

Forums of this type have a highest and best purpose, in my opinion, as a pooling of scarce knowledge among a small (relatively) number of enthusiasts. It's less about the Facebook-like interaction that you might find on other sites. That means, in many cases, there won't be that outpouring of...

A fresh update. Last weekend was to be another Forest Lane Reunion Cruise-In, so we put 15-20 hours color sanding and polishing, and updating the week before. Highlights: Took the valuable DOOE water pump (the seal was leaking) and orig voltage reg off and replaced with a $20 parts store...

Thanks, everybody for the pics and tips. I'll post up the picks later.

The reason I asked about the shocks is I'm running almost identical coil overs on mine. Bought em nearly 40 years ago. Thought I was the only one. Real surprise to see your pic.

Oh, man, thanks! That helps a ton. What kind of shocks?

Ordered a Summit Racing 2.5" header-back system since we were running little shorty Thrush muffler that were never going to pass inspection. Passenger side, after a little cutting, welding and bending fits great. Driver's side over the differential hits the staggered shock. Not totally surprised...