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I didn't like doing these back pcs since they all sit on concave surfaces. These outside decals were matched up to the other, taped in place for a few inches, while the rest was left to be installed wet.

Even though I used the tape to hold it in place on the bottom, I sprayed the whole thing w/ water and 1 drop of dawn dish soap pr/bottle after removing the backing paper. Boy, was I glad I put this on wet, it is a curved surface and a couple letters gave me problems. There's lil fine lines in there,

On the back decal, I trimmed it tight so that I could see where I put it. I trimmed the keyhole area with curved surgical scissors. I used the keyhole to align this, then taped off the bottom, holding it in place.

These were put on dry. The vinyl on the rear (trunk lid area) and very front fenders, will need to be put on wet because of the multiple bends and shapes, they won't lay flat enough to work out all the defects w/ a squeegee.

Squeegee these well, anything w/ different angles from the direction you pull it will want to lift.

This only works after you've pushed everything down w/ the squeegee. Letters are where it will lift the most.

I can't find the correct picture. This is an important step. Use the squeegee from the bottom up & the middle outward. Do not let anything else touch.

By doing these dry, you've got one shot. Also subject to more air pockets. Some small air bubbles will disappear while others can take a fine pin prick.

Use 3m painters' tape & clean the area w/ Windex so that tape sticks.

Then I taped the bottom w 3M painters' tape, in the position I wanted.

On the large side decals for the 73 Mach 1, I went with the "dry" method. I trimmed the bottoms of the backing paper even all the way across, they won't be trimmed evenly. I used the bottom to line them up & taped them in place.

I like the vinyl graphics on this car, anyway back to the Mach 1

I continually sprayed allowing me to work out the air pockets, while repositioning what I don't like.

I trimmed it pretty tight and kept it wet.

On the ol' Dodge I kept the whole quarter wet to apply the vinyl.

Did you change the alternator to a different brand? I noticed they route the wires differently between the power master and the other brand. One start up w/ the wires crossed, and you'll fry the voltage regulator. Try a voltmeter on the battery with the car off it should be slightly better...

I had a similar problem earlier this summer. Yes, my fuel was vapor locking. It acted as if it was running out of gas, which it actually was. It happened on a couple of hot days in a row after getting the motor hot. This simple little set up stopped it completely. Of course, I couldn't see it...

Kinda limited in the compression department. May as well run through it.

Yep, you won't want to run a wire all the way to the fuse block. You have 2 sources to use for your B+ the wire Hemi killer mentioned or the junction block that your original alternator harness went to. It's big black wire w/a orange stripe. Mine was on a 73. As far as the the rest, there's...