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Yep going to completely strip them, prep, and looked into that paint. Definitely took note that ceramic coating can't be used for the break in. If I just go enamel high temp rather than ceramic, does that process still apply?

Noted! I knew they would end up getting discolored/crappy looking. Nothing a couple hours with brake fluid, shop towels, and the correct rattle can can't fix. Fun weekend project while I wait to take the car in.

Sweet. If I would have taken another 10 seconds it would have registered these were just painted for shipping. Hence the cheaper price. Being in AZ im not concerned about rust with the steel ones, am I good to go on just letting that paint burn off and calling it a day with them?

I had never seen or heard that either. But reading a description on some of the headers, some of them said that using them on a break in would get them too hot causing them to crack. I dug it up so you can see I'm not losing it. About 1/2 way down under the "Tech Resources"...

Touche!! I assumed as much! Correct me if I am wrong but a lot of the disclaimers on the headers are saying not to use them when breaking in a fresh motor rebuild. Is that accurate?

Much appreciated! It was easy finding headers with my 72 C-20, pretty much any store carries them for a 350 SB.

Yep that also crossed my mind! I guess if I can find some for $400 or so I can live with that. It would just take me a little bit longer to realize the performance gains from the rebuild with the factory manifolds 😂

That was the exact part number I googled about 20 minutes before seeing your post. I saw it on the Holley site and it showed discontinued product, but that obviously just has to be from them. Sweet! The other one I found said not compatible with PS without some sort of bracket.

Since you all have been super helpful so far, coming back for some header suggestions that won't break the bank. Looking on summit mostly everything I find is either 351W, or 351C but won't work with the FMX. I know you get what you pay for, but 1k for headers on top of the shop bill just isn't...

Yessir already wrote that down! Going to call back again and just have valves added to the quote. Little odd that they weren’t but other valve components were

That looks great. I just wasn’t sure how wide I would be able to go before I would need to swap the rims. Or have clearance issues in the front

Awesome! All the info I needed. I’ll be getting some rims I really like on down the road, but between motor/tranny/exhaust, my bank account is tapping out

Tried to search through the forum but couldn’t find the info. The tires my 73 came with are dry rotted and will need to be replaced. Since I’m doing the motor/tranny rebuild soon I’m going to be ordering some tires. They are currently 205 75 R14. Everything I look up says trailer tires. Sticking...

I’m staying with my 2v heads. How much should I budget extra for the valves? If you look at the quote it included springs, keeps, and retainers

Yessir did think of that as an option based on what I hear after they get it all apart. He said he’s had instances before where motors have been brought in that at one point were previously rebuilt, and there’s pretty high end parts that’s inside that the owner wasn’t even aware of, that could...

I actually just called on that because I saw the springs/keeps/retainers being replaced. Once they get in there they will check to see the shape of the current valves and whether or not they should be replaced. He didn’t mention a different brand than Comp, but yes I would agree that it seems to...

Awesome thank you! I might give him a shout. Had to go in and edit this, didn’t see the part where you mentioned this shop after getting my ride together. I’m certain the suspension components will all need to be gone through, so I’ll look him up for that!

Stopped by the shop this afternoon, definitely looks like a great spot. Had a 67 fastback on the rack, 68 fastback on the ground, and they were in the middle of working on a 70 fastback outside. Along with countless 65-68 coupes on the lot. Went through the whole rundown and this is the spec...

I’m going to stop by the shop tomorrow and talk to him to nail down a plan. Or if I get an odd vibe then I’ll start looking elsewhere. It’s only about 6 miles away. The heads definitely need to be machined, so new valves and springs will be done at the same time. Labor/cost wise is it best to...

That sounds unreal. The more I think about it the more I am mostly likely going to email that shop back and bang the stroker idea. Put the extra cost that would have been into headers and getting the rest of the exhaust done. I’ll be having to do tires at the same time, or that test drive...