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Well its all fixed now. It was just a loose connection. Running fantastic now.

Everything is now working fantastic. Brakes are perfect now. It sure is nice to be able to drive again.

Well I gave up and sent it to the shop.

Ok so it's the power wire to the starter. I wonder why they made it black instead of red.

The ground cable is a reproduction of the original so it has the tab that connects at the voltage regulator and a second tab to the block. All connections were cleaned thoroughly. In the pic of the repop cables shown above, where does the other black cable go. I seem to remember 2 black cables...

Yes changed both battery cables complete. Battery tested good. I tried jumping the solenoid and still no start. I'm starting to think he knocked something loose under the dash when he was tightening up the brake booster or brake switch.

all the wiring seems to be original and relatively unmolested. There has literally been nothing done that should cause a wiring issue. it ran fine, even while we were working on the brakes. Now that its all fixed, were having hell. I suppose I will go make sure that nothing got pulled loose...

Car worked fine the other day.  Had a low battery so we charged it up overnight.  Car started fine.  We worked on the brakes for 2 days, then tried to start it and the battery was dead.  Checked voltage on the battery and it was at 9 Volts.  So I replaced the battery with a new one. Went to...

I wish I could pull the motor and clean it and repaint the engine bay, but dont have time for that yet.

Finished everything up, went to start it and..... nothing. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't charge. Tested voltage on the battery and got 9 volts. Got a new battery. Still nothing but a click then total power failure. I wiggled the ground cable and power was restored. I have known...

That's what I was thinking.

I think we got it now. Everything bled good. Pedal feels strong. Now just have to put the rest back together and put the tires on and give it a test drive. One question though, The rotors have some rust on them from sitting. Should I wire brush that off?

Its bleeding much better today. The drivers side is completely air free. Passenger side still has a bit of air. I'm going to let it sit for a bit then check all the fittings on that side and try again. It's still much better than it was.

I think I found it. Passenger side union was full of trash.

Thanks everyone. Here is what I'm thinking....... Passenger side is solid foam. Drivers side barely has any bubbles. My prop valve has 3 inputs and 3 outputs. I never have issues with the rear, so all is good there. Since the passenger side is so much worse than the driver side, I'm going to...

All the lines and fittings are new. I only use line wrenches where possible. Sometimes theres not enough room. The main lines are stainless. When I did the last bit of line work, I used some copper colored lines that are Nickle-Copper alloy lines. I really like those. Last time I went they...

Everything is new, thats part of my problem. Its hard to tell where to start. If I cant figure it out this week, im going to have to resort to taking it to the shop down the street. I wish there was some kind of dye you could add to the fluid to check for leaks.

It's just strange that I don't see any fluid leaks anywhere.

Is there a Dye I can put in the master cylinder that I can detect a leak with a black light?

Everything is installed now. We are trying to bleed the system. The back was no problem at all. The front, not so much. I have tightened every connection and I am still getting foam coming out the bleeder on the passenger side. The drivers side is not bad. I get a tiny amount of air on...