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Well I believe I found my issue. Only time will tell. I put Everything back together and it would only buzz the starter solenoid. I jumped out the solenoid and the motor cranked over. So I went and got a new starter solenoid cleaned the grounds and when I went to put the wires back on the...

Buy the lights off of Amazon. If you buy them from an auto parts store it will be $50 for bulbs.

New starter in and still having issues. Going to recheck all connection and try again in the morning.

Sorry for a long delay, had to travel for work. So my starter is dead, shorted to ground. This explains the dead battery and not starting. May explain the some of the voltage issues as well. More updates and pic to come.

Welcome!

I greatly appreciate all the feedback from everyone’s experiences. This is the type of insight I need. I am lucky my harness is basically stock and intact. The plugs are brittle and so is the fuse box. When I got the car almost every bulb was burned out. Which is a good indicator of a bad...

Steve McMahan , thank you. It didn’t cross my mind to use google for the forum. I definitely will give that a try! Tnfastbk, thank you for your input. I would definitely agree it would be easier if the car was apart to do the harness and if I do end up doing a complete harness that’s what I...

Don, I searched the forum, I found a few talking about issues or questions. I didn’t see anyone give their opinions on good or bad. I am looking for feedback like Steve McMahan did. I know I can change all of it. I am looking for feedback and actual experience. Like if the there are issues...

I have a few questions. Who has done a complete after market wiring harness in their mustang? Where did you move the fuse box too? Has anyone did the digital dash with electronic speedometer ? What about trunk mounted battery? Single wire alternator? DUI distributor? I am just curious after...

I plan to test this evening, we had a cold snap come through and I had to watch the Chiefs play, so I was a little preoccupied.

Just a quick update, installed new ignition switch put dielectric grease in all connections and I have power but my battery died. So I am charging it over night and will try again in the morning. It did try to start and I do have power everywhere, so that is a good sign.

I purchased a new ignition switch just to be safe, the headlight switch and turn signal switch are new as well. I will put everything back together with Dielectric grease and test again. Wish me good luck.

Once while driving, second time after a short stop filling up with gas.

It’s a 1973, no splice yet. I am debating on running a new wire outside the harness vs cutting the harness open and replacing wire.

Boilermaster, yes it kills the power to the ignition, headlights and all fuses except one. The bulk head is just a rubber grommet no connector.

I have an intermittent open on the main power wire (37Y) the yellow wire in the pics and wiring diagram. This wire runs from the starter solenoid to the headlight switch and starter switch. I have been stranded twice now. I checked the fuseable link ant it is fine. My question is , should I cut...

Upgraded to a pop open gas cap. I do think it looks better.

Thank you for offering to look, but I got it out and have everything reassembled and back in the car. Wasn’t too bad to do, other than needing a second hand to put the nuts back on on the firewall.

Sorry I had a dual post on this topic. The flapper is the air diverter right above the heater core. The rod is supposed to slide out. See attached pictures.

Bobby, thank you for the information! I didn’t know that. It makes sense due to the restrictions the evaporator coil will cause. I lucked out and my blower seams fine other that blowing out 50 years of dirt build up.