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I find an original standard one works just fine. Can't speak for a repro if they are made.

For 72, I found the best to be contained in the 1971-1972 Electrical assembly manual. It shows all the connectors too which many schematics don't. Those are sold by many Mustang parts dealers.

The green (light green/ red dashes) wire connects to the parking brake switch if you have the optional convenience group.

I am NJ also, west central. What part of NJ are you in? I have quite a few left over parts from restoring my 73 Mach 1 if you need something I might have it.

Regarding the tilt column, the turn signal wiring harness is different for 73 vs. 71/72. Mechanically the column fits all 71-73s. 71s are a little different next to the turn signal lever as they a have a little removable plate next to it, 72/73 do not. That doesn't effect using 71 columns in...

I checked the nut that holds the wheel on. Its 5/8-18

I have one, will sent you a private message

I have two driver side pieces remaining, one blue like shown above and one red. Both in very good condition. These were items painted body color by Ford, not molded in a sold color.

Best I can tell, you need to swap the two #37 yellow wires. Factory circuit breaker was directly attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. See factory wiring diagram attached. This factory diagram is for Mustangs with the factory ammeter/oil pressure/temp gages and tachometer.

I was thinking of going with the Lares 10:1 unit also. I have a tilt column. Does anyone know if it works with the factory tilt column rag joint?

Early 73 Q code 4 speed Mach 1s came with dual exhaust AND chrome exhaust tips with notched out rear valance. Mine has a build date on Nov. 17, 1972 and came with the chrome exhaust tips and matching notched valance. It still had the original exhaust when I bought in Jan. 1978. I recall from...

I have a newly restored choke pull down for the Rochester spread bore carb $225 and an AC clutch with coil, $100. Best to private message me if any interest.

4300D carb (D3Z LA) and a 4100 or 4300 carb. Need rebuilding. Plus the other parts pictured. $75 for the 4300D, $50 for the 4300D EGR plate (like new), $40 for the choke tube set up. These are all correct for a 73 Q code 4 speed. The other carb $25. Gaskets $10 each, EGR valves $15 each...

I barely used this carb, then decided to go with an EFI system. I only drive my car about once a month, only in the evenings in good weather. Carburetors require the engine to crank over a lot to refill the fuel bowls to replace the evaporated fuel in order for the car to start, EFI starts up...

Pictured are various interior parts. Mach 1 sports interior seat back, black, $50, Mach 1 sports interior passenger side rear panel, black, with PW switch cutout $50, AC vents, $25 each, AC control $75, black auto shift handles, $25 each, keyed type glove box latches (no keys), $15 each, 73...

Sent you a PM

I think Steve is right. Spreading the tabs apart should cause the retainer to collapse inward on the opposite end and be free to come out of the hole in the floor pan. A wire cutter tool may help in spreading the tabs by wedging them apart. An alternative would be to get access to the top...

I have 3 nice aluminum wheels for 73s. Sold all the center caps and lug nuts. The correct center cap is red. Here is the 73 factory lug nut dimensions.

Yes, I have a deluxe blue set for a 73. Sent you a PM also

Do you have a photo of the back of the cluster?