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The Rickster is painted and is coming home Monday morning. I can't wait to see it outside in the sunlight.

Thanks, everyone. It's super exciting, and I think it's looking awesome. I got a few more pictures of it today, that I thought I would share. I can't wait for them to get it done. I'm hoping the body will come home on Monday, so I can get started assembling it. Slowly, but surely.

Thanks, guys. I think the hood stencil came out perfect. Very happy with it. They've now got the entire car in color, and while pictures don't do it justice, here are a few. :) They did do a little body work to a few areas, where I didn't have it quite right. Mike and Gregg have done an...

Yes. The core support is farthest forward with the front, or #1 crossmember about 6 inches behind it. That front crossmember is where the strut rods attach, and it is very stout. Engine crossmember is also very stout and kind of a pain to replace, but it's very doable. If the engine is out...

With the engine out, there is a lot of weight gone. If the core support and front crossmember are solid, you shouldn't have any problems removing the engine crossmember and replacing it.

I like what you've done, and agree the cutout for the lever is a bit odd. I wonder if it would look better if you made the cutout area bigger with straight side that go front to back. How much room is there under the arm of the lever? Would there be enough to make am oval cutout for the...

Thanks guys. This morning I got a call from the paint shop. They wanted me to come by to check that the paint color was right and the hood blackout was laid out correctly. They had sprayed the entire hood, and cut and buffed the driver side to see what it will look like when it's done. I...

Well, it's been a month since I've posted an update. Time flies when you're having fun, and by fun, I mean working on an old mustang. In the mean time, though, I have gotten the rest of the floor covered in KilMat. I also built a block-off panel to close off the passenger compartment from the...

Yesterday morning, I got a call for Tri-Cities Plating in Elizabethton, TN, letting me know that the rear bumper guards were ready. I think they turned out great. If you need to get something plated, I highly recommend them. https://www.tricityplating.com I have been working on the Rickster...

The front bumper was stripped back to bare urethane with 80 grit sandpaper. I removed the bumper support from the cover. I removed the top supports, and sandblasted them. I cleaned up the metal support with a wire brush and some sandpaper, and used Eastwood Rust Converter to kill the rust...

It's been a bit since I've posted an update, but I have been working on the Rickster. After getting the transitions between the doors and quarter panels blocked, the guy who is going to paint the car came by and checked it out. He pointed out a few areas that needed a bit more sanding, but...

Thanks, guys. Gilbert, I've watched a number of your Youtube videos and found them very informative.

Sooo... today I tackled the passenger door. It was essentially a repeat of what I did the previous day on the drivers door. I got the gaps set, and then five skim coats of Rage Ultra body filler and sanding later, it was looking good. I got the hacksaw blade and got the door separated...

Today, I got to work on the driver side door. I pulled the fender off, and tweaked the door gaps with the rocker and quarter panel and tightened the hinges down. My priority was that the style lines on the door matched up with the style lines on the quarter, and the top of the door matched up...

It's taken a while, but I finally got the rear quarter extensions done. The transition between the quarter panel and quarter panel extension wasn't as good as I liked, so some smoothing was needed. After fitting the extensions and tightening them in place, a skim coat (or two or three) of body...

As bkdunha said, welding the stainless clamp to the mild steel bracket will be a PITA. Your idea of using a mild steel clamp, in my opinion, is a much better idea. If you can't find the one you need, you can make one using a strip of 20g mild steel bending a tab to a 90 degree angle on each...

Great to see you're back, Brian. That garage is going to be really nice.

Welcome from NE Tennessee.  That looks like a nice project.  It can all be fixed.  All it takes is some cash and lots of patience.  Good luck with it.

That's coming along nicely, Tim.  Keep up the good work.  

For the front eye bolt, the spec says 100-140 ft lbs, and a mean torque of 120 ft lbs.  For the rear shackles, the chassis assembly manual says 14-22 ft lbs, with a mean torque of 18 ft lbs.  For the U-bolts, the manual says 30-45 ft lbs with a mean of 37.5 ft lbs.  I did double check, and those...