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If you buy rebuilt calipers, be sure that the rebuilder replaces the pistons. Once the chrome plating wears off, the used pistons are very to rust prematurely. Another option is to rebuild them yourself.

I deleted the hockey puck but kept the pinstripe for a clean look.

NPD used to have stainless steel caliper pistons. Does anyone know if they are still available anywhere?

Harbor Freight has inexpensive voltmeters that work well. Just remember not to measure volts with the meter set on AMPs.

Many years ago, I bent 3/16 inch stainless steel rod to make new latch pulls. If I remember correctly, they were held in place by Allen set screws. Unfortunately that Mach1 is long gone.

IMHO, l remember from my high school Physics class that the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection. That said, you would have to be driving directly into a sunrise or sunset to have a direct reflection onto your eyes. I guess I’m over analyzing this, but the responses from the forum...

I understand the history of the flat black hood. I also never had sun glare reflected from the hood in 50 years of driving my Mach1.

I might be the only "outlier" in this thread, but I like the way gloss black accents the NACA (NASA) hood scoops on my 71.

You might consider using 71-72 frame mounts. Fastback frame mounts are the same for the 302, 351W and 351C. Stock motor mounts are available from multiple sources. If you are using stock 2v exhaust manifolds, the Prothane captive mounts are an option.

I am also concerned about the valve lash on the Sunken valve. With the cam on the base circle, a quick check on the hydraulic valve lash is to tighten the rocker to take up the lash until it just touches the pushrod then tighten it 3/4 to 1 turn. The rocker should be seated on the pedestal. You...

You might consider measuring the cam lift at the rocker arm of the valve with the failed pushrod. This will rule out any cam issues. The pushrod coming off the rocker could have caused the pushrod to be bent. Inspecting the lifter might also be a good idea.

Also be aware that most rebuilt calipers do not have new pistons. As the chrome plating wears, the piston becomes more likely to corrode. I always rebuild my calipers with new pistons (stainless steel if I can find them).

Since the rotor was new, the thickness should be adequate. If the petal does not pulse when the brakes are applied, it is not warped and should be OK to use. You can sometimes (but not always) feel if the rotor is warped when turned by hand.

I use 2 of the larger 6 ton jack stands with the plastic pads, under the rear axle tubes and a pair of steel ramps (or 3 ton jack stands) under the front. I sometimes put additional jack stands under the dif. or front crossmember for added stability. I think threre is no such thing as too safe...

Had the same problem and used the Holley vacuum secondary quick change kit on my 600 CFM Holley. I believe that there are also 2 settings on the secondary linkage to aid tuning.

Can't have too many LED lights and high efficiency appliances. My electric bill is $40.00 a month and $80.00 a month with AC on.

The shift cable was welded together internally and the trans could not be shifted out of park. Replaced the shift cable and added an additional grounding cable from the frame to the block. The problem never recurred.

As a last resort, you might check your ground from the battery to the block. If this is marginal, current might be flowing thru the accelerator cable. I had this problem once with the shift cable on my T-Bird.

71 H code 351 converted to 4v, 3 speed manual, Mach 1, PS, AC

One final thought, make sure you have proper bypass flow to prevent coolant blowout due to hot spots during warmup. This is usually more of an issue with aluminum water pumps (non Ford) or cars with AC.