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Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol  several months back.  You can watch it here: The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread.  See if your pistons look like that.  You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.

Actually, the engine bay is much more quiet, but the exhaust itself sounds meaner.  Nice trade, I would say.

It doesn't sound so mean since I fixed the exhaust manifold leaks, haha.  But thanks!

Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily.  If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom.  You can then drain that...

Boss engine or not, you have one nice looking ride there.  Enjoy it regardless! However, as others have said, you can take a look at the damper, which is probably the easiest thing to do.  Other fairly simple things to check would be to pull a valve cover to see if you have the Boss screw in...

That is awesome.  Looking forward to seeing the restoration unfold.  It is certainly worth your while to restore it as original as possible.  Based on what you paid and the condition, you are in line for a nice pay day down the road if you do decide to sell it.

Man, that's a steal either way!  Can't fault a guy for taking advantage of a good deal when he finds one.  Do you also have the matching numbers drivetrain?  Or are the motor and transmission not original to the car?

Honestly, the more I see that car, the more I realize you have a gem.  You might not realize it based on the current condition, but you have an awesome base to work with.  With such little rust compared to most cars, it's not going to take a lot to get things fixed up.  As others have mentioned...

Nice, you should be easily able to patch in that same section from the new pan.  Based on how nice your floor looks overall, I'd say your cowl probably isn't that bad either.  No doubt there are some holes in there, most likely right around the hat area.  If it's not too bad, it would be a good...

Honestly, you can probably do a decent cowl repair from the bottom, now that you removed the factory heater box.  In my case, I replaced the floor years ago and didn't address the cowl until recently, when I installed the Classic Auto Air system.  Since that system blocks off the cowl vent...

I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible.  See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel.  If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel.  Is that car factory AC?  Reason I...

I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video.  You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section?  You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.

I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future.  The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others.  It wasn't all that hard to improvise.  Here are a...

Right, but this really only applies to factory AC cars who have the 3rd AC belt slot on the crank and are using the factory AC brackets and idler.

Yeah, that bracket is essential to secure the idler pulley to the compressor.  Without it you only have it mounted via the 2 bolts to the water pump housing and it's just not very secure/stable. It sucks that CAA has a long history of shipping these kits without that bracket and they continue...

Well, I think I answered my own question.  Looks like they didn't include this bracket: https://www.originalair.com/sanden-idler-adapter-kit

Ok, Duralast 17550 it is!  That saves me the hassle of doing the string thing, thank you! One other question for you and Mister 4x4, what did the bracket they supplied you look like to allow the Sanden compressor to mount?  Literally the last thing I need to do is mount the compressor, I have...

 I don't suppose anyone knows the correct belt/size I'll need to get the compressor spinning?  I had factory air and am using the original brackets and pulley with the new compressor.  I'm sure I could just use string method to measure, but figured it was easy to ask.

Yes, very easy.  I didn't go through the extra trouble of fitting like jtassin did.  My seat brackets allowed enough bend to install as it.  The extra 2 inches of foot space they provide is a Godsend!