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Are there any known fitment issues with using the earlier style 4-bolt ball joint, vs the style used on 71-73's that only have 3 bolts? The "nose" area around the ball joint looks to be more blunt on the early version. The later version looks to provide more clearance...perhaps with the...

Your first picture looks like what I have going on. Did you have rubber or polyurethane strut rod bushings in the "before" configuration?

The attached is a depiction of what has happened. The LCA's were part of a kit I bought from California Mustang back in the 80's. Maybe they were just crap control arms and the press fit of the bushing-to-Control Arm was not tight enough? One of my rancheros has a similar situation, but not...

On my car, the Lower Control Arms (LCA) have migrated forward and have rubbed on mounting framework. This is presumably related to the Strut Rods pulling forward for positive Caster. Wondering if any of you have experience tack welding the bushing to the control arm to prevent the bushing from...

@73pony Out of curiosity, was it one of the bolts that threads into the front cover, directly? I think there are 2 down low and one up top that you can actually see.. I have a spare cover that has one of the holes tapped to 3/8.

As Boilermaster said, the bolt may be from the front cover. The threaded holes are first punched, then threaded. The length of thread is fairly short. You might get away with using a time-sert (solid body thread insert) but I don't recommend a heli-coil. If you go this route, keep in mind...

The dyno article is a really good read, thanks for posting.

That's pretty slick.

I'll be facing this sometime relatively soon....very uneducated on the AOD and requirements for retrofit.

Have you tried rotating the pinion yoke with the axles and driveshaft removed? If not, I suggest you do so. If the tight spot is still present, the issue is internal to the differential. An excessively long axle would bottom out on the pinion cross pin. The result would be that the axle...

I'll 2nd the recommendation for this cable set. This is the heavy duty version....worth the extra few bucks.

This is what I ended up doing. The washer bottle will still fit in its OEM location....obviously, the ignition module is in the way on my install. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-603-001-Coolant-Reservoir-Bottle/dp/B000E35UV2/ref=sr_1_2?sr=8-2

I'm interested in making this conversion. I already have the housings and halogen bulbs, but find them quite poor in comparison to modern lights. I installed these back in the late 80's and the improvement was quite dramatic....now they seem dangerous! haha I'm sure it's not my age or my...

It's actually new! One thing people should know about the Cardone....the housing OD, where the cap seats, is larger than a Motorcraft. In other words, you have to use their small to large cap adapter. I learned that when I tried to fit a small diameter HV cap and it wouldn't fit.....I ended...

That's a good observation, Hemi, but the screw has 2 ground lugs and the distributor uses the one on opposite side. The coil assy must have multiple applications? Edit #2: I have wondered about adding a ground strap between the coil's baseplate and the breaker plate. Thoughts? Edit #1...

There's a rod that connects the inside door handle to the release mechanism over at the door jamb. These use a metal clip that looks like a clevis on one end and snaps around the rod on the other. I suspect one has either popped off or is broken. Edit: I guess my memory is off.....that first...

No EFI, but EMI was on my list, early on (before it was determined that the noise was directly related to vacuum advance). The oscilloscope showed an unusual pattern on the the power wire, so the alternator was disassembled and found a pair of blown diodes. The rectifier bridge was...

Got a chance to repeat the rotor to distributor terminal phase test....this time with the timing light set to zero. The position of rotor looks great with and without vacuum advance applied....no need to adjust the phase, as far as I can tell. I thought I was on to something with the rotor...

As I understand it, the D0VE-A block is a 4-bolt SC/SCJ block. The D1VE-6015-AA may or may not be a thick web block. I have one, fully assembled, sitting on a stand. It's an engine I built back in the 80's and I wasn't aware of the thick web 2-bolt main and I didn't pay attention when I put...

I'm going to try and get some pictures of the rotor vs terminal....this time with the timing light set back to zero...lol I also cut a hole above the pickup coil to see the angular position of the reluctor when ignition is triggered.