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I have yet to see the average restoration of any 60s/70s car come out totally flawlessly. More often than not, people are trying to resurrect a car that would have otherwise been headed for a junk yard. No to mention that the gaps on these cars were not perfect out of the factory.

Maybe a dumb question - Are you sure it's not just the hose leaking?

For some reason I though the half vinyl roof was a 73 option - If this is Was it available for 71 and 72 Mach 1, or was it 72/73 or just available on the 73 Mach 1s (the only one I have ever seen)?

Definitely overpriced - not worth what it got IMO. It still looks a salvable restoration, just needs more attention to the little things (a lot of them) to clean it up. - not sure I'd call it a "hack job". Just reinforces for me that one should not go to those auctions if they intend to buy a...

Here they are: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=3324

When I swapped transmissions (ragged-out FMX for a rebuilt FMX) I had to tinker with the shifter rod adjustment to get it to shift from P through D1 correctly. It's been a while, but it seems like I had to get the shifter and rod relationship in in exactly the right spot to correctly move...

The pics are very cool, but the actual article is just one more that repeats earlier, negative perceptions about the 7123 dimensions and design. It links to another article that is just as bad. I doubt that the author (if its not an AI facade) has any real exposure or appreciation for these cars.

I could use some of that dehydrated water advertised at the bottom of the ad.

With that many cubic inches I would lean towards water pump flow or radiator size. But just to explore other possibilities - I know you say airflow is not an issue, does that just mean volume? I would also try to make sure as much air as possible is being forced through the radiator from the...

IMO, it's either AI-generated, or just plain poorly written, for those reasons. The author doesn't seem to know what direction he/she/it wants to go.

Neoprene can be either. I looked at the Amazon product, and it doesn't specifically say, but from the description I think it's probably closed cell (states that it gives good oil resistance).

Tuning for E10 is the most cost-effective strategy IMO. The effort is pretty minimal, as long as you address the rubber parts and pay attention to how stoic for E10 is different and tune for it between carburation and ignition timing. It "burns" slight faster, meaning you need less overall...

I ran into issues with fuel boiling in my lines and out of my carb a while back. Fuel in my area is almost always 10% ethanol, which means the gas starts boiling off at a lower temperature than straight gasoline. The following checklist solved my problem: Run adequate timing advance at idle/off...

A few things to call out & keep in mind - a 750 is a bit large for a 302. it can be tuned to work just fine, but Stanglover is right that its larger than necessary. When you put a larger-than-needed carb on a car, you can expect to adjust the fuel mixture. With a carb, intake and header...

A stethoscope is the cheap/easy place to start - using that, you should be able to quickly determine if it's an exhaust leak or not, which could save both time and money. If its not a leak, you should still be able to quickly narrow it down to a specific location, which is also helpful.

Just my experience, for what it's worth - It's not uncommon for an an engine to run lean after installing headers - you are effectively increasing the capacity for air through the system. I agree with post above, verify timing first. If that is OK, then try investigating your transition from...

Looking at the Fuel bowl bolts, I would ask the same question. The threads and shanks appear to have a very similar-looking coating on them, and that does look like anti-sieze compound. Clean that out, reassemble and try running it again - I bet it'll clear up. And don't buy a carb or have one...

The stock-style kickdown rod doesn't need a bracket. Here is what I'm using for my 351C, FMX and QF carb: Kickdown rod...

+1 on the clock-to-Tach conversion - I'm running that and its great. Also - like Stanglover - a +1 on a matching steering wheel (down to the faux-leather wrap).

I tend to agree with Giantpune. I ran a TKO in my 79 vette with a 427 SBC and modified suspension and loved it - it was perfect for that. I hear the TKO is a great upgrade. A friend just put a TKX in his 66 Comet, and really likes it. If I were looking at going manual, that would be the first...