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You certainly did. I thought that my car could be an original 47,000 mile car, it has little rust on it and had part of the factory interior which was decent. I was always concerned about the timing chain being original. About a month ago I changed my harmonic balancer, and since I had all the...

I lived in Michigan for 3 years, and I know how happy you are to get out of there. I lived in South Florida for 22 years and have lived in East Texas for the last 2 years. No plans to ever move again, I will be buried here in Texas!

I would not doubt that Edelbrock combo could make 465 HP. Here is a dyno test of what Richard Holdener describes as a stock M-Code 351 C and what he got with just a cam and intake swap. Stock with headers he said he got 365 HP, and with a 240/246 cam at .050 and an Edelbrock intake he got 450...

Excellent, I guess that calling Vito did the trick :cool: If I could be sold bold, the one "upgrade" I would suggest for that engine is to put a fan clutch on it. I really hate those Ford OEM "flex" fans that used to explode and take half your engine compartment with them.

I am going to give a stab at this. When you did your rear brakes did you get the self adjuster repair kit? Not everyone buys the self adjuster repair kit, but they probably should. The self adjuster cables stretch and end up not working correctly, and it is very difficult to tell just by looking...

Moog still makes good strut rod bushings.

You would have to be crazy to jack the car up by the rotor, at least I would never jack the car under a rotor. I hope the OP has never thought of doing that. Honestly, that never crossed my mind when I read that.

Welcome from Texas!

In 72 the Q codes were the only 4 barrel equipped 351 Cleveland engines in 1972 except the rare R codes HO engines, all the H code cars had 2 barrel carbs. So, the first thing that you should find is a 4 barrel 4300 Motorcraft/Autolite carb. The heads should have a number 4 cast on the upper...

All I can find are partial front frame rails, it seems that they have them in 2 pieces per side. An inner partial frame rail, and an outer partial frame rail per side. Only thing I could find with a complete frame rail was with shock towers and aprons...

I don't think that the spring can come off when you remove the lower control arm. The upper control arm will hit the frame rail way before the spring can get anywhere near the point where it could come flying off, the spring perch will move to keep the spring in line with the top of the strut...

There is no way I would get into that project. Would take years, and you will spend way more than just buying a good car...

They gave you the incorrect master cylinder, just go back and exchange it.

You will need at least a vacuum pump and gauges to work on your A/C. They are not too expensive, maybe $150 for both, and you will also need a conversion kit to R134. You need to vacuum the system for like 30 minutes with your gauges in place. After 30 minutes remove the vacuum pump and let the...

Yes, you can reuse your medallions.

Check the fit of your bearings on the races that are on the rotor, they should fit perfectly, but you should check just to make sure before you grease them and install them. The rotors that I put on my car some months ago look identical to the ones you have and they also had the bearing races...

The mid terminal goes onto a screw on the bottom of the voltage regulator. The end of the ground wire goes to the block, there is a forward looking hole on the block right under the alternator where it screws onto. Here is a thread where you can see where the mid terminal goes to...

Yes, if one side is higher than the other at the back edge of the trunk, the way to adjust the trunk is to grab it by both ends and bend it. As weird as that sounds there isn't a much better way to do it, LOL.

Welcome from Texas!

Excellent, I do not need new parts and I do not need to rip the rear brake apart again :cool: