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I've had great luck with my Ebay knockoff champion 3 row radiator. Going on 6 years with it.

So recently there's talk all over the news about how used car prices are skyrocketing, and while I don't think that may be directly affecting the classics market specifically, I think it is definitely having some kind of impact. We all know how common it is to see listings of people wanting to...

My 71 was the first car I had. Got me through college as my daily driver (wouldn't recommend it). I don't drive it as much as I used to, but it's still usually my daily during the spring and fall when the weather permits. The driving experience is just so much more fun and engaging than any of...

I had to take mine to my machinist. They had some kind of hydraulic press jig up that would pop them off. Other than that, your looking at very carefully using a cutoff wheel to remove it. I think they rarely ever come off by hammering/heating.

If you're gonna go the route of rebuilding a 4100, the carb CFM is based on the venturi size, which is stamped on the side of the carb. Here's a handy chart for decoding what each venturi size translates to. As far as I know, 1.08 is the most common size.

Correct. Your air cleaner has 2 spots for connections on it. The one in the front goes to the flexible tube to the evap canister, and I believe the other one goes to  the breather cap on the back of the valve cover, but someone can correct me on that if I'm wrong.

The blue canister is your evap canister. It's filled with activated charcoal and it's purpose is to vent the fumes from the gas tank. Looks like you've already got the line that goes to the fuel tank hooked up. The middle fitting has a plastic cap that goes on it, while the one on the left has a...

My car came with a Boss 302 429 scoop (and stripes) that the PO put on. I don't like it personally, but it doesn't look awful I guess. Would much rather have a NACA hood, but that's just not a priority yet with the build. On the other hand, I probably *could* fit a blower under the hood with a...

The horse is your high beams indicator.

Replaced my pitman arm today, and can confirm with video evidence that they do wear out...

Looks fantastic! What wheel widths did you end up going with?

Must have been a busy day. I also have a 1971 F100 with the same build date lol.

Makes sense. I have noticed a lot of weld buildup around that area on the crossmember.

Was looking through some of the paperwork that came with my car and I've always wondered what this form is. I assume it's some kind of dealer invoice? But there's not much info on it. There's 2 dates on it: 11/20/70 and 10/30/71. According to the Marti report I have, the build date for my car...

My only gripe with the car is the shin buster 9000 in front of the grille. If only I had one of those softer urethane ones...

That lesson took me many years to learn, but there's a lot of truth in that statement. Nowadays I just bite the bullet and go with NOS or used wherever I can.

I've had a chance to do some more research into the topic, and it seems that dollar-for-dollar, a 9 inch is generally going to be stronger than an 8 inch. However, in theory, you can put the money into an 8 inch to make it very stout and handle a lot of power - it's just going to cost a good...

Found it hiding on a shelf! PM'd you.

I've had a similar issue before. Turned out to be the positive wire on the ignition coil was loose and would briefly lose contact from the terminal when you got on the gas and the engine bucked. I'd definitely check your wiring connections on your coil and make sure they're firmly...

TCP sells an adjustable 3/4" rear sway bar for our mustangs. Doesn't use the stock mounting points, but looks pretty well designed. I was going to get one before I decided on going with a 3 link setup instead. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/arrm.html