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They are the clips that go on doors and rear quarters and back of front fenders for the thin trim that divides the black and body color on most mach 1s without side stripes as shown in my pictures. they are approx 7/8" long and approx 3/8" wide at body where they clip into the bright aluminum trim.

Very nice, love the details.

Thanks, it's been a couple of years of on and off work and it's finally starting to look like a car and not just a bunch of parts.

Hello, I have been searching for the difficult to find belt line chrome trim clips and have found only inconclusive information. I see NPD offers some clips but states does not work on original trim, an ebay company called midwest restorations has some similar looking ones at very high prices...

Thanks for showing me that. That seems too simple. I guess I'm all set. It just seemed to me that at least both sides would be black.

Hello. can anyone show or tell me if this whole side bucket and upper bracket should be black? Or just the square bucket with the bracket remaining body color? Also is the area on fender that holds the plastic squares blacked out or body color? Or is it all left silver/my body color as it...

Hello, I have 2 edge moldings side by side the grey is the ACP brand and the black is a dynacorn brand. Can anyone tell me which end piece is more like Original? Also pictured is the raised edge under the trim top, the acp piece is one continuous line where then dynacorn has interruptions...

the dan carpenter ones and he hopes to get more in future, he is out now.

OMS gave me the full scoop on these so I am all set, thanks all.

Hello, can anyone tell me if the Dan Carpenter hood locks are inferior to the factory tooled ones that are unavailable now? Would like to drill my hood prior to paint but I don't want to put inferior hood locks in either...NPD only has one of the factory tooled locks available. Any insight...

On thinking about this for a moment I think you would lose your safety interlock if you don't use both factory castings, Look at the inside middle and you should see where the castings lock together if your rubber donut fails. you would need to retain the long pins for safety if you did not...

i dont have enough info on the 202 to comment but keep in mind rock auto has these for about half the price your ad is showing here...

Hello all, I got my new hood extension today and even though I had read unkind things about them I had no other choice but to try one, First it has the wrong bend in front (or my aftermarket hood has) I had to apply a lot of pressure to get it straight enough to get it to bolt on. Now I see...

Not me..

I did not view the pokey wires to be a real issue...just an illustration that it was reinforced with a lot of wire...I got out my hobby nippers and trimmed them off. I was happy with the lares joint, curious what npd sells but happy with my outcome.

the current lares 201 has lots of wire reinforcement, the sharp wire ends are constantly poking your fingers as you assemble it. I guess the bottom line question/answer of this thread to me is that the rubber insert for the tilt column is the same size as rubber insert in the non tilt columns.

To reply to the comment about no back up if the rubber fails: you have to look close but inside of my early 71 there is 2 tangs cast into the pieces that lock together if the rubber joint was to fail. Mine did not have the lock pins originally, just 4 steel rivets.

So first I assembled the joint with the Dorman 3100 rag (3105 is also same size) and I noted that d/t the hole being half a hole off you could only use a plain (non shouldered bolt) 5/16" bolt in holes and that was literally stretching the rubber to make it fit. It would work but not really...

As title states I am in the middle of rebuilding my rag joint and my first attempt at getting a dorman rubber piece did not pan out. This donut is very close but not close enough. The bolt circle is just a bit too small. I haven't searched the local parts stores yet but I wanted to know if...

We were having trouble adjusting our drivers door and I believe someone installed the wrong door hinge on the drivers side. This hinge stands out about 1/4" taller than the original on the passenger side, It has the letters J1 2fl on one piece and J5 2fl on the back plate. dated 9 30 3F. I...