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Looks almost like our 351C-2v convertible we bought a few years ago. Med. Yellow exterior with white deluxe interior and gauge package.

I'd suggest contacting Don @ Ohio Mustang. He carries the plenum and is a site sponsor here along with being an all around great guy. www.ohiomustang.com [email protected]

Welcome back. Hope you get it all accomplished and life doesn't get in the way again.

Where in Texas are you located? possibly interested in the battery tray and tail light panel, possible the dog dish hubcaps and trim rings.

I want some of what he's smoking.....

I'm looking for a roller idler arm / bearing for my 73 power steering car. I've looked at open tracker and Chocko stangs websites but don't see them listed. I've also emailed Dan @ Chocko Stang tonight. Any leads or thoughts ? I wanted to do this since I'm freshening up my front suspension...

I'd question that literature. I have a 73 Mach I 351 2v Cleveland car with standard rear shock mounting and I also have a 73 351CJ Mach I with staggered shocks / competition suspension. .I've worked on a good number of these cars thru the years and the 73's only had the competition suspension...

Not entirely true. That would indicate the competition suspension package was ordered on the car.

Order the Marti report on the VIN you have. There is only 1 consecutive unit with that sequential VIN code and it'll tell you the missing information

More than likely the snap ring on the countershaft or mainshaft wasn't seated properly to hold the gears in place and they backed off. I had this happen years ago before I started building my own T5's and had one built by a local shop. After getting the car back together and the student driving...

Bracket not needed on our cars. only earlier cars with the slave hydraulic cylinder on the drag link attached to the chassis, they need a drop bracket.

The lock "something" pin is your steering column lock. It won't allow you to remove your key until the shift lever is in park, nor can you move the lever out of park without the key in the ignition and engine started. I'd strongly suggest spraying the transmission with a degreaser and then...

Jam a screwdriver in between the timing chain and gear on the left side to lock the crank then remove the bolt.

They warn against leaving the ignition key on with the engine not running. That will cause the pertronix to burn out. I think they solved that issue with the pertronix III, but I'm not certain.

RacerX = Curtis

I'm interested in the brake booster and aluminum slots. Pics? Curtis Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

What about just using longer mounting bolts and standoffs for the e-brake bracket to space it away from the kick panel? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

Omar, that car looks GREAT! Love the color.

Are they leaking at all ? Push down on a bumper and watch the bounce. If it settles after the rebound, they are fine. if it bounces more than the up movement after your downward push, you might consider replacing them. If they are replaced, it's usually a good idea to align the front suspension...

Jeremy, sorry you didn't win anything but the car looks great! I'm sorry I couldn't make it. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk