Search results

It's true, back in the day we ran big fatties on the back and skinnies on the front. And if they rubbed we would run a pipe between the wheel and quarter to flare them out. Cragers, Keystone, Centerline and Slotted. Classic car classic rims.

Air, Fuel, Spark. You got air, actuate the throttle to see if your accelerator pump is pumping gas, could be your float bowls dried up and your needles are stuck. Fill your float bowls manually through the vents. When you know you are getting fuel try to start it, if it still doesn't start check...

I noticed the drum brakes also, I thought mustang did away with those in '67...?

I use a putty knife to scrape the big chunks off, then like most here I use simple green and a pressure washer or wire brush.

I would go with a 1000, you have a lot of parts there for some one using it as a parts car.

Agreed, I get itchy looking at fiber glass.

First thing I would do is check the bulbs and sockets for corrosion. These cars had poorly sealed connections by todays standards.

I have never felt itchy after using Evercoat, it's not like the fiber glass mat used on a boat or Corvette, which by the way I also dreaded working on. Body fillers have come a long way since the 80's and are much more flexible. Try the aluminum reinforced if you are highly opposed to the glass...

Take the R-LB wire - the one from the ignition to the starter motor relay - off. Check the voltage with a meter, turn the ignition to start and release to run, check the voltage again if it is hot it might be the one going to the coil. You might have the coil side and the start side reversed...

Is your fan a clutch fan? Those go bad. Do what giantpune said about checking the water flow, careful though, I have seen them spew if you have an air bubble. Temp sensor might be off or for a different gauge?

I posted some dimensions on page 1 of this thread. That is a template of the part I took of the car for a two piece fabrication, someone smarter than me might be able to figure out a one piece fabrication.

This is the setup I used out of a couger. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71delay.html

Welcome and good luck on the build. This guy knows how to fix rust.

Nothing that I know of.

Evercoat Rage Gold is one I have used, it has glass beads added to it for strength. You body filler should never be so thick a magnet won't stick to the metal. You should be able to work the sheet metal well enough so that there is only a thin coat, less than a 1/4 inch. Learn how to "Sheet...

Thanks, it was no easy task as I am old school, meaning paint won't stick to shiny. You have a nice looking ride there.

Nope, but the previous owner buffed all my trim with 80 grit so this is what I did. The window trim is not on but it will be the same SEM trim color.

Number 1, find a machine shop familiar with Clevelands. Mister 4X4 has a nice set up. I had the crank and the cam on the block line bored to true the block up, not sure if that is a standard practice anymore. IMHO you don't need to spend the money on blue printing unless you are going to tighten...

Do you have a stock tach? And how long have you been running the car in this configuration? Out of curiosity I ran a pig tail from the electric choke to the coil, it did seem to start quicker but I noticed the tach reading was lower by 2 to 4 hundred RPM with the hot wire connected and higher...

I have the same set up but much older (30 years) with the same butchered wiring harness. I restored the pink resister wire and my engine and tach run fine. My Pertronix was for a dual point distributor is the only difference I see.