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Closest thing I could find is 1964 1/2 Skylight blue. http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/showcar.cgi?type=search&line=148728127215&pic=/1964/1964_00023_02 The 65-66 Silver Blue is too blue.

Looks good.   Did you contact Specialty Wheels Ltd?  They made my wheels and it only took about 3 weeks. https://www.specialtywheel.com/

Spent last Saturday at my local track participating in their Gasser Drag event.  All cars pre 1974.  Fantastic day.  Lots of eye candy.  My car is no race car by a long shot but for the sake of the venue, my friends asked me to participate and support the track.  I was the only car there on...

My wheel dressing of choice is: 303 Aerospace Protectant https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487116429&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant It is pretty much the same as the old Dupont Teflon Tire Shine...

Very typical of the FelPro Print-o-Seal gaskets. They have given me and many of my other car friends issues just like this over the years. FelPro denies any issues with the gaskets. They just suck. I used the metal valley pan gasket for my last 351c build without issue. My other recent hot...

Don't see many white ones.

Good to hear and glad I could help.

I actually had some used and cheap mechanical oil/water temp gauges for a long time contemplating this upgrade, but I could not come up with a decent and easy way to make them work. I too was a fan of mechanical gauges and was reluctant to use electrical gauges, but I saw no other alternative...

I mentioned a synchronizer ring in my last post as that is what most people refer to them as. I've rebuilt scores of toploaders in the past. The brass rings are called "blocker rings", the teeth on the specific gear itself(1st,2nd,3rd,4th) are the "clutching teeth". The tapered surface the...

The big 5" monster tach, aftermarket gauges and radio had done their time and for years I've been wanting to convert my dash parts to a more factory original feel.  I had been amassing the bezels and parts over the past two years or so and I finally got everything together and working.  I had...

Hmm. I never had an original transmission in my car so I can only say the trans does what the valvebody tells it to. If you'd like it to shift with a more performance feel, they try an old fashioned shift kit. When I bought my car it too was missing the kickdown rod. Never hurt anything...

Take the rear wheels and put them on the front and see if the vibe moves with the tires.

Looking at pics, I'd bet on some major cowl rust. Worth restoring, Sure. But at what cost compared to the repairs and work needed?

Did you ever stand the transmission on its end, or whack the main shaft while installing the seal? Sometimes that can really jam a synchro onto the gear, but I'd think that would pop loose with engine torque if you tried to go into 4th.

Maybe you should start a new thread explaining your budget and intentions so we can try to see if we can steer you in the right direction to meet your goals. There will likely be several options and opinions put forth. In the end, you will need to decide the path you will take.

I agree with much of what Chuck has to say. It's all up to you which direction you take with your car. In my years of ownership(22) I started using many aftermarket parts, but over the years have been coming back towards original appearing parts. Not 100% original, but enough that the casual...

Hmm. Did you replace the top cover gasket? I would also try to reset the shift levers. Often one can get bumped and knocked out of alignment. You could try your troubleshooting again but loosen the adjustment nuts so that you are certain they are all truly in their neutral position.

I should probably think about replacing mine too. 20 years ago (a year after I bought my car), after the car sat in storage for a year I could not get the trunk unlocked with the key. I had to remove the back seat, push through that layer of insulation, destroying it in the process, and pop...

I recently purchased some of the medium ginger dye for my interior. I love SEM products but this can seemed seriously watered down. Not sure if it was just this color that needed to be this way. Usually it is very opaque but I almost needed half a can just to paint a single piece of a-piller...

Just looking at it, I'd say it's worth about $6k-$7k. The cast headers are worth about $1600-$2000. Be sure to check to see if it's a 427 and not a 406. But either is valuable in their own circles. Date codes and casting numbers are everything with FE engines. And then there is that Boss...