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This is more of just a really dumb mistake than an intentionally stupid thing to have abused my car, but I once accidentally left a terry cloth rag INSIDE the engine in the lifter valley. Another time, during my high school years, a friend of mine was throwing a big party at his parent's house...

Texas doesn't mean diddly squat when you're out of cell range in the remote wilderness. What I like about Mallory is that they don't have to boast about some billet component (all of their distributors are billet anyway) and you can rely on them. Regardless, distributors are very old...

There's nothing wrong with the quality of components from a lot of foreign places, including Mexico and Taiwan (on par with Japanese quality now), but I would steer clear of China. Their quality control is really not ISO 9001 yet.

You're right. I think that's the beauty of the EEC since it was designed to adapt to a wide variety of engine configurations with the least amount of fuss. Do you know that it will also run 4 and 6 cylinder engines? Not that anyone of us ever would in a classic Mustang, but just saying.

Hehe, I only say such harsh words because I've had an MSD billet distributor leave me stranded in the remote wilderness of the Canadian Rockies before. To date, it's the only distributor failure I've ever encountered... and it was electrical as well. I've run Mallory Unilites for literally 20...

It's crap. Total overpriced crap. If you're going to run a distributor, use a Mallory unit.

If you're running an aluminum radiator I wouldn't use anything other than Zerex GL05 coolant and think about running a sacrificial zinc anode as well unless you're sure you've got no current flowing through the rad.

Yes, there is, but any CDAN4 ECU can be adjusted to run a myriad of different transmission types including both manual and auto transmissions.

I just busted out my Makita 4" cutoff and trimmed a sizeable portion of my hood this evening to clear my air intake! I should mention that my hood is fiberglass... so the cutoff makes quick work of it.

That looks awesome! Very nice work! How did you retrofit the late model Cobra brakes to your '72? Did your car come with drum spindles originally?

That sucks, but it's true... there is a special power steering pulley installation/removal tool and the depth of the pulley installation is adjustable to some degree.

Yeah, if you're not an experienced engine builder I would go for a crate motor. I've blown up enough Windsors to know it's definitely not a bolt-on affair. I wish there were off the shelf headers with 1.75" and larger primary tube diameters for Windsors, but in retrospect I should've just...

My local Ace Hardware has some nice spacers too, out of various materials, including steel and aluminum, in various DOM. As for where to source the alternator, you'll want to do some research before purchasing one as there are many different housings and mounting points available for the 3G...

Mine wasn't rusted, but severely mangled and damaged to the point that I had to have my friend fabricate a new crossmember from scratch and sort it out. Was not a fun job.

Do you have to run the stock brackets and alternator? The Fox 5.0 Mustang brackets and accessories bolt right on and using a 3G alternator provides a significant upgrade.

That sounds fine, just make sure that the breather with the pressure relief valve is inflowing fresh air. You'll sometimes see the fresh air inlet plumbed directly into the air cleaner on carb'd setups, often a small port on the throttle body or air intake elbow before the throttle body on EFI...

Late model 302s, aka 5.0 HO EFI engines have a good PCV setup. I've seen very few of the late model 302s leak oil and their valvecover gaskets are pretty awesome too (they all use a steel frame with integral rubber gasket). All use a sealed driver side valvecover (no breather at all). The PCV...

And here it is:

Just found this info on the net from http://www.themustangshop.com/steerbox.cfm.