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I couldn't do that... for that price I could fabricate my fuel system mounting points using billet 6061-T6. Might be a good solution for someone who is unable to design and fab their own system.

There's many ways to achieve this, the simplest being an external high pressure pump, such as a Walbro GSLxxx model with a pre-filter and post-filter feeding a regulator up front. A return line will need to be added, for which you can modify the stock sending unit and add a 3/8" port by hand...

Ummm, this is slightly incriminating, but worth mentioning. Regardless of what the drag coefficient of a '71-73 Mustang actually is, I logged 172 mph on a local road somewhere in southern Arizona. I was not alone either, my friend and I were both tuning our 4R70W transmissions, particularly...

So I finally got my car to my friend's shop and it looks like the 4.0" overall length Moser yoke I ordered is not correct for my rear axle. The yoke that's in there is 5.0" long. So... looking around for a 1310-series 5.0" yoke for my Ford 9" and not finding much. Perhaps this is the time I...

If I have another rear u-joint failure I'm certainly going to upgrade to either a Versailles companion flange or the Currie equivalent.

I was only planning on using the impact to remove the nut, but I've since then decided to have my friend, who owns a transmission shop, to sort it out for me instead. That way they can check the angles accurately while the car is on the lift and also take a look at a few other things. My...

Ok, thanks very much. I believe I just need to find an impact socket that large enough to fit the pinion nut at this point.

Mine is chewed up from the failure of the u-joint. The driveline guys said it would be wise to replace the yoke. I have a Moser unit in hand, complete with new u-bolts and hardware, but not really sure I should attempt replacement myself.

Is it a difficult job to replace the pinion yoke? I know that my axle was built up using a solid collar install of a crush sleeve. Not sure whether I should attempt to do this myself or not...

I did actually consider this. However, this would require chopping up a reasonably freshly fabricated aluminum driveshaft to fit the larger joint... and then, the front joint would need to be redone and rewelded as well since it would surely be the weak spot if left alone. Finally, the U-bolt...

Wow, that's scary. What transmission and type of driveshaft are you running? Mine is a custom made aluminum shaft with 1310 joints at the rear diff, U-bolt style. I had to get a custom made shaft after I installed the 4R70W transmission. Might want to install a shaft loop underneath your...

I used a wrench on my U-bolts and "job done" resulted in a failure. The failure is more likely due to the fact that the engine puts out over 550 ft-lbs of torque.

Yeah, it's truly amazing what a good sound system does for the driving experience. It's the finishing touch on a Mustang project once the paint, drivetrain, suspension, interior, etc. has been finished. I would think that twin 10" subs would be a bit much for my ride, but I've got a single 10"...

I've been able to tighten things down using a 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/2" deep socket, but there's definitely not a lot of space there.

Good question. I have a smaller compact wrench that might. I believe the fasteners call for no more than 15 ft-lbs.

Yup, with power comes failure, but I have a high angle driveshaft with CV in my '79 Bronco with Neapco greasable joints and they seem to be surviving just fine despite a major increase in power and abusive driving. I think I might've overtightened the U-bolts on the bearing straps and killed...

Gonna need to order a new yoke... any favorites out there? I see Summit lists Keyser, Currie, Inland Empire, Yukon Gear, and Moser... all about the same pricepoint. I see forged steel, nodular iron, and ductile iron as materials.

Shaft builder is replacing the Neapco u-joint under warranty and rebalancing. The yoke will need to be replaced however, there's a little bit of damage to it from the first u-joint going out. My friend has a transmission shop so I'll ask him to replace the yoke and take a look at the angles...

I think I've logged a few thousand miles on my car since performing the 4R70W upgrade with EEC-V injection. The car makes ridiculous amounts of power and torque, it's completely overkill. I don't drive abusively, but I've discovered that I've totally roasted my rear u-joint. The shaft was...

Thanks for that, Mr. I also have some Alpine Type R 6x9s, but their power handling is a lot higher than the Alpine 300W 4-channel amp I've got, so I'm not sure about them. I've got some BA 4.5" speakers mounted in the plastic inside quarterpanels firing forward, so I might just go ahead and...