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What does the factory package tray look like and what was it made of? At this stage I'm considering simply mounting my speakers (6.5" round fullrange) into the package tray and firing them up at the rear window. A box with a 10" woofer simply mounted inside the trunk area firing forward...

I just wanted to add reinforcement to the need for chassis reinforcement on these cars. They're very flimsy, albeit very good looking cars. At an honest 300 hp to the rear wheels, I could see the quarterpanel skin near the roof ripple. Since running an EFI 408 stroker making an honest 488 hp...

Ok, so making some progress on parts selection for my audio upgrade. However, I have one major issue to overcome and that is that my rollcage goes through the speaker panel (under the rear window) directly in the location where the speakers would be mounted. So I either need to cut new holes...

I know many of you folks have stock restorations, but my car is a restomod and I'm considering installing some kind of performance audio system in it. First off, my car is a Sportsroof and doesn't have the fold rear seat option. I've also got a roll cage so that consumes a bit of space...

It's easy to tell which sensor is within the cam sync sensor, but I think there might be some confusion about the part. Mustangs started coming with the 4.6L OHC V8 in 1996, so any cam sync sensor from there is not going to work. What you need is a vehicle equipped with a 302/5.0L OHV V8 that...

Well I can assure you that once it's up and running properly, it is really pretty sweet! BTW, for the cam sync. What you need is the cam sync housing from a 3.8L V6 Ford. That housing fits the 351W, 351C, 351M, 400, 429, and 460 engines perfectly. You'll also need the cam sync guts from a...

EFI is a pretty nice boost in performance if you're a keener.

I didn't paint my rockers either and I prefer the look.

I don't know about a '73, but my '71 fastback does not have the rear belts going through the rear quarters.

With 3D printing technology these days, I'm pretty certain you could print a complete replacement grill with OE honeycomb out of ABS with decent results. You'd need a reasonable size printer however, but the Fusion3 comes to mind. We have one in our office and it can do some big stuff.

I would upgrade to a modern Sanden or even better, Seltec HD compressor. Definitely R-134a. Needs a dedicated high efficiency parallel flow condenser. New receiver/drier, R-134a specific expansion valve, and new hoses. The only stock items to keep are the OE evap core if it's in good shape...

I will never live without A/C again. Moving from Vancouver, Canada to Tucson, AZ, I almost DIED while idling at a traffic light just after moving. However, the old A/C systems are garbage compared to modern stuff. What I ended up doing was purchasing a York to Sanden style compressor adapter...

Rocketman upgrade my tach and I couldn't be happier with the results.

I had one and found that it had no low end torque production with an off the shelf Comp Cams 280 Magnum hydraulic flat tappet cam. Midrange and top end, on the otherhand, was a different story. It's just older technology - a better option would be an Edelbrock Torker for more high RPM work.

With my SEFI 408, 10.3:1 compression, reasonably radical cam, and 4R70W transmission with lockup and 3.50:1 gears, I seem to be able to squeeze out 25 mpg on the highway cruising, and about 15-16 mpg city driving.

All of Derek's definitions have edit and datalog capabilities. Since you're not using a computer controlled transmission, you might consider using GUFB strategy computers which are EEC-IV from an '89-93 Mustang V8. They can control EDIS as well as TFI. Whatever computer you go for, make sure...

Unfortunately, both of those catch codes are for strategies that are not widely supported. Either you run them stock with no tuning capabilities, or you replace them with an EEC that is well supported. This is the issue with running the OEM Ford stuff, but in the long run it pays off. Ford...

No, not silly questions, a good question really. EEC-V has EDIS integral to the box, so if you're keen on using a distributor you should probably be looking for EEC-IV hardware. EEC-IV supports more options for ignition, including EDIS and a TFI distributor. The downside to EEC-IV is that the...

LOL Yeah, the '71-73 Mustangs make a good platform for EFI conversions. Minimum of fuss to get wired and cabled up. My next project on the car is going to be reinstating the A/C using a Sanden compressor retrofit, but all hooked up via the EEC so it runs like an OE EFI setup.

I think I'm going to 3D print an interference fit/snap-in cover for these clips and hope it stays on. I'm pretty certain only something hard and rigid is going to work well.