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My cam is a Comp Cam #32-431-8. Grind FC 284RF-HR10 .566 gross lift int &ex. dur at .050, 284 int & ex. Lobe sep 110

Interesting, perhaps my cyl rings or intake.... hardly any miles on it. It does seem to be a bit oily in the cylinders and plugs when pulled a couple. I went in with a snake camera and saw more oil than I thought I should... Didn't realize that could make it ping. I may just start breaking it in...

Oh no, The only time I hear it pinging is under a hard load at higher rpm's

I told my builder I was going to use my factory D2ZX- damper so to build it for that. He did however put a different aftermarket balancer on it which I need to check I guess since I pulled the aftermarket off and replaced it with my factory one. If it is neutral or even incorrectly balanced for...

10 to 1 comp. Running non ethanol premium 92 oct. Closed chambered 4V stock iron heads with small dish pistons. Pretty good-sized cam which you would think bleeds some comp off... I'm going to take it out of storage and play with it some more... I could list cam specs if you like.

Great info. I have an R code Mach that I had to build an engine for. It's a roller stroker 408 now with 10 to 1 compression. I found a D2ZX- dampener for it but didn't realize it had it's own timing pointer. I can't seem to get a "ping" to go away while tuning it. Is it possible my stock pointer...

Great info. I have an R code Mach that I had to build an engine for. It's a roller stroker 408 now with 10 to 1 compression. I found a D2ZX- dampener for it but didn't realize it had it's own timing pointer. I can't seem to get a "ping" to go away while tuning it. Is it possible my stock pointer...

Speaking of Pertronix I put them on pretty much ALL of my more or less stock engined cars if the original distributor is fairly tight and the advance is working properly. You get the factory look AND electronic ign. plus the factory advance curve that Ford designed for that engine...

If it were me I'd just put a Good aftermarket coil on it. A Blaster 2 or other high energy coil would help the Unilite realize it's potential. Unless you need to rev limit the engine I don't really see the need for the box....jmo

Probably not your problem but when I bought my 72 'Q' code convertible it had a 600 cfm Holley carb on it. The car seemed pretty weak so I pulled the Holley.....HA! It had a spread bore intake and the Holley was a square bore.... The secondary throttle plates couldn't open! I eventually found a...

I have one I'd sell.

Does it have a rebuilt distributor? I've had really bad luck with stock rebuilds. Same thing, stumbles as soon as the vacuum advance kicks in. Try disconnecting the vacuum and see what happens.

Ahh, OK. Yes I did. I should have done a search first. The other thread is much more gratifying....

Enjoy Guys! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-zOT_Pw26k

I saw so many things I just quit caring after awhile.... I think it's overpriced

I'm done....common courtesy and all. Good luck with the problem....

I tried the nuts and bolts once....ONCE! You're not going anywhere with the acid and motorcycle crap and it's not cheap! If you're trying to cheap it put on a really GOOD inline BIG filter.... the fuel injection ones work well. Hell, put on TWO....the final one should be clear so you can see...

Hi, welcome from WA state. It doesn't need to handle like a "wheelbarrow"! First put some performance coils up front and big sway bars front and rear. Then get subframe connectors w the X brace installed. The body flex on converts is horrible without it.....You'll be amazed at the difference...

Looks kinda like he modded the ram aircleaner to fit the HEI.