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71 T-5 Mach1, numbers matching m code c6, currently in restoration. 73 Grande, 351c aussie heads, 5spd, work in progress.

I have wondered the same about my Grande, it had to have been built at the samt time as yours, but my vin is 3F04F263747.

I went with the MDL cable and added an oem pedal I was lucky to find on craigslist. I modified the pedal support myself using sealed roller bearings which was easier than you might think and maybe 20 bucks in parts. I cut the brake pedal to fit the manual pad, so really the biggest expense for...

The 71-73 cougar coupe seat platforms are the same short ones used in the mustang fastbacks. I discovered this while replacing mine on my Mach 1. A friend of mine had a cougar parts car, I compared them to my originals and BADDA BING! I couldn't tell any difference.

Well I am also doing this same swap and am using a 95 mustang 5.0 T5 with the V6 bell. I haven't had any issues with the starter...I actually chose the V6 bell because it accepts the 164t flywheel. The 5.0's used a 157 tooth. The longer input length puts the shifter in the middle of the shifter...

I am terrible with names too. shgrrttn - Ritchie

It is different from the beltline up, however you may be able to rework a coupe piece to work.

I had a condenser go bad and it backfired through the carb and acted like it jumped timing. I checked everything else first, even tore the timing cover off, but everything checked out. An old Ford guy took a look at it , changed the condenser and it fired right up. Made me feel like a dummy!

did that cougar have power windows? looking for a pancake motor and one of the rear switch harnesses.

I have a pretty decent used one I have been hanging on to. PM me for details.

A big howdy from north of Spokane! Nice looking cars!::welcome::

The fastback roof trim wont work on a coupe, but the cougar trim will. I used a roof skin from a cougar on my 73 coupe and it had the half vinyl top. I removed and still have the trim pieces. There is also an additional roof support underneath the skin where the trim goes across the roof.

Awesome. I would have bought the wrong starter for sure. Thanks! You have been driving it for a little while now, any other little gremlins show up?

Welcome from Spokane, Wa! Go Broncos! (sorry, Im a Colorado boy.)

So what was your solution to the starter/flywheel ring gear problem? I am currently doing the exact same swap and am at the point of buying a mini starter and mocking things up. I was thinking of fabbing up a spacer for the starter if a suitable one cannot be found. Or possibly moving the ring...

You need a riv-nut tool. It works on the same concept as a pop rivet tool except it has interchangeable studs that thread into the insert. As you squeeze the handles, the barrel of the nut insert compresses and expands locking it in place.

The H code is the low compression base version of the 351c. Its not going to have a whole lot of power with only 8 to 1 compression. Put a 4v manifold and a set of aussie heads on it and it should bring it up to around 9.2 to 1 range and give it a little more snap. I'll let you know, cause thats...

The drums and backing plates are specific to the width of shoes you are running. What do you have on the front? Disc or drum?

PM sent.

Cool. I'll be interested to know.