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Yes it is running and driving. It's med lime metallic. Pretty original. Don't know any history except that Andy had it for 20 years or so and never drove it except to a few car shows. I always wanted one also so when "Mustang Andy" from Spokane Wa. decided to sell his I jumped on it this last...

Sorry about that, I was getting confused myself by working on two cars at the same time. I will go to the Boss 302 site to talk about the other car. I've edited it and it's all about this 351/408 stroker in my 72 R code now. The big carb was suggested by the builder, or maybe it was 800cfm. It...

OK. You must be measuring it some other way. I go off the degrees reading on damper with my light. When I set it at 8* idling it goes to 32* total on my damper when I rev it to 3k or so rpms. I have the damper marked also...so I can tell where it's at. I've just been subtracting 8* from 32* to...

You must be measuring it some other way. I go off the degrees reading on damper with my light. When I set it at 8* idling it goes to 32* total on my damper when I rev it to 3k or so rpms. I have the damper marked also...so I can tell where it's at. I've just been subtracting 8* from 32* to end...

My engine paperwork calls for 32* total. If I limited mech adv to 10* and went to 16* initial that's only 26*, so I'd need 16* mech adv in dizzy, right? It seems to have 24*-26* mech adv in it now. I wonder if the Mallory dual point is even worth keeping in there... If it will spin the engine...

OK. I need to decide what dizzy to use first. I'm still hoping it just needs broken in. I might do that first, then concentrate on the tuning.

If anyone has an original 72 351c HO engine for sale I'd be interested!

Those are two I've thought of selling. Some I wouldn't even consider selling like my 66 and 68 fastbacks. If I sold the 70 Q code I'd keep the 69 Mach and vice versa...

Thanks, want one or two? I need to sell a couple just to have inside storage for the rest!

I may try a different dizzy. I don't like points and dual points even less. I wonder if that dual point dizzy is the reason my factory Tach quit working?

I set it to 8* initial yesterday and it went to about 34* all in. took for a drive. It is still pinging. That 16* was for the HO engine anyway, which this engine is Not.

Uh oh. How do I tell if it's steel? Took it for a drive, still pinging under a load. I'll pull the dizzy out and check the gear..... I think I have one I could put on if it's wearing/galling.

91oct non ethanol premium now. I think I had Old gas in it, year old if not older. But I just filled the tank so most of it is fairly fresh now. Taking it for a test drive....

I set my timing to around 8*. Total advance looked to be in the 34*- 36* range. It has an old mech adv dual point dizzy in it. I think it's a Mallory. I have an 850 cfm double pumper Holley on it. Still haven't changed oil. Need to drive and check for pinging now....

OK, sounds good. I'll do that and change the oil. Thanks! That 16* tune spec sticker is the factory one for the HO engine. This is Not that engine...

The installed balancer was a PNR DA-3515 which I changed out for the D2ZX- . My cam has a 106 centerline and 110 lobe separation, 224 dur @ .050, and .566 lift, hyd roller

OK. Not many miles at all. Probably less than 100. It may in fact still have oil in it from the builder but since I can't remember I'm going to change it per your recommendation. I checked the damper that came off and it looks like a 28oz balanced one. According to my parts list my rings are FED...

My build sheet says 9.95 static compression. I'm going to put a better break in oil in it and drive it while playing with the timing and carb.

I looked that Delo 400 oil up and it's a synthetic blend. I will definitely be draining it and using an oil like you suggested...

I can't remember what oil I put it for sure but I've been using Delo 400 SDE 15-40 in most engines lately. It's a heavy duty Diesel engine oil with more zinc than most. Should I drain it and put in something different to break in the engine?