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If the ram air flaps close when the engine is running (and vacuum is approx 12" or more) they work. When engine is shut down, the flaps will open and remain open. Revving the engine while in park typically does not lower vacuum enough to open the flaps any significant amount. When the engine...

A friend of mine whose business is performance, tuning and racing told me many of the drag racers who still use MSD carry several spares. In his world they're known as 'May Suddenly Die' units.

The ram air ducts are designed to work at low engine vacuum -- which occurs at wide open throttle under load -- which is not something that normally lasts very long. Sounds like yours are working as designed.

Depending on the rear end gearing, this car would have been quite the street sleeper in it's day.

If you are moving towards hands-on, probably the best investment now would be a complete set of shop manuals and a set of the reproduction assembly manuals.

I've used Hemmings (not the auction) and had a good result. Be prepared to get a lot of 'low-ball' offers. Take the time to prepare a detailed honest description - it will reduce the questions from interested buyers regarding pertinent details that should be known. Lots of good detailed...

It's a shame the factory ram air cleaner is missing.

I suspect you will have fitment issues trying to install coupe carpet in fastback. Considering the cost and time factor is getting carpet shipped to Australia, it might be worth installing some inexpensive indoor/outdoor carpet to keep you on the road until the correct one is available. I have...

+1 with everything above, especially Hemikiller for 5 month WNY winter seasons. I had a bad experience 5 yrs ago with mice entering the car thru cowl drains, then into the plenum and the interior. I had been using dryer sheets which obviously failed to slow down the incursion. Took weeks of...

I'll send a PM since I have one for the cost of shipping that's been sitting in the garage rafters since 1996

You missed 3D - Medium Blue Poly which was a bit lighter than Blue Glow & without the metal flake. Also, 4N & 3Q.

"Ok! Mine is, in fact, a 1971 Mach 1, 351c, auto trans (c6). However, the Marti Report shows a 2 barrel carb. That’s throwing me off. Everything else seems to line up." It is not unusual for a previous owner (PO) to change out a 2 bbl intake for a 4 bbl intake. In fact, it was a popular upgrade.

There are several AOD adaptor shift rods on the market that you can use with your factory shift assembly.

Pretty nice looking '73. It's a shame the aftermarket undercoating is slathered on as thick as it is....undoubtedly hiding some rusty sections. But that's what they did back in the day....!

In the fall of 1970 during my freshman year in college I saw a 71 Mach 1 parked on campus and loved the styling. That remains true today.

Out of curiosity -- how are the door gaps? I agree with MikeGriese that a careful investigation with chassis measurements is needed.

While it appears to fairly acceptable on the topside, the underside gives me a worrisome feeling of caution. This one would require a close look underneath. Whatever thick goop was sprayed on could be hiding some serious floor-pan issues. I believe there is some visible rusty chunking in some...

In short, yes - get it checked and adjusted as required. The hardest part is finding someone who really understands alignment on vintage cars like the mustang. That's the really important part.

Not bad, but agree that there are quite a few 'head scratching "what was the thinking behind that"' items.

Vacuum leak would cause same behavior so might be worth checking. You mention new carb so checking around base gasket would be a start.