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Thanks for update. It was frightening how easy that joint came apart. Would have failed at any moment... really glad I looked into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the Dorman kit to rebuild, I was just curious because there are no guide pins extruding from either side of rag joint like on many pics I have seen. The rivets are flush on both forged sides of joint. Good advice on grade 8 bolts. Thanks! Jeff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, the mobile app keeps grabbing wrong pic This is column side of rag joint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is other side of joint, this side was connected to column. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, sorry that I forgot to mention that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Crew, I pulled the column and rag joint because getting Ready to do floor pans and easier with it out of the way. Also, old brake master cylinder leaked and turned rag joint to mush. In my research prior to yanking it, I had a good idea what to expect. As you can see in the pics, my column...

Pulled heads and sent them off for checking and head job. The valve guide and stems were in really quite rough shape. Will start dissembling the bottom half this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reminder on head bolts. Would you mind looking at the pics I posted earlier and adding any analysis. I just haven’t had that many engines apart to really gauge what is going on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update! Got her out and had great help from my kiddo. Wasn’t difficult at all, wished I would have just pulled her two months ago instead of farting around trying to diagnose. Lots of grime on that side of engine, failed oil pan gasket perhaps? The driver side is equally worse but I had a PS...

Yeah. F these bolts. I am going to just yank the motor. I will spend more time jacking around and skinning my knuckles than it takes to pull her. That pushrod on 4 cylinder was full of goo, no oil could go up it. I will plan on sending heads out for valve work once I pull her and check out the...

Ok, dumb question. The exhaust manifold bolts are a pain. I can just just pull the head out with exhaust manifold still attached right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some pics of after I pulled the intake. Kinda gross, the intake manifold gasket was a turkey pan style and hard to tell but I am fairly confident there were some areas that were leaking vacuum. Some strange particulate in valley, almost charred looking oil? Most concerning was # 4 cylinder...

Update. Decided to go ahead and start pulling the heads and see what it going on. When I drained coolant, noticed some oil in with coolant. Got intake almost ready to pull... Really not looking forward to exhaust manifold bolts. Got everything soaking overnight in PB blaster, for what that is...

Thanks. I will double check! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did Dons technique and air was coming out through the exhaust(tailpipe) as well as through the breather hose in back of passenger size valve cover. Thoughts??? Around 90 percent certain I had #3 at TDC, that was a little tougher than dialing in #1. Lol But back to my original post, would this...

Another strange thing, is that right after I shut the motor off. There is a ticking sound coming from that side of motor for maybe 60-90 seconds before it goes away. Sounds different than just heat expansion sounds... any thoughts on that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I figured you meant compression stroke, otherwise either an intake or exhaust valve would be open. Will try that tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Don. I have never tried that technique, how much PSI should I feed into that cylinder? All new spark plug wires and cap, rotor, etc. Plugs all new, but #3 had some carbon fouling as other plugs look clean. Hard to get a good read since car has been garage bound since I got her a few...

Made some more adjustments and moved timing to around 12 btdc, and increased hot idle speed to around 750. Got her to shift without dying. Still has a nasty miss on that #3. Any advice to tell if it is a ring, valve seal, or head gasket? She is close to being able to be test driven. Sent from...

Slightly better but still laboring. Going to play with choke adjustment and idle speed screws a bit more. Was able to shift into gear without it dying. But eventually she did stumble and die out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk