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It was embedded in the text - looks like SHerriff41 has you covered.

Vivid racing sells them too

To add to GrantOV's post - I don't see any problem with the RockAuto stuff. I had the cheap-ass version installed by the previous owner, and changed it out with the mass backed carpet from RA - much nicer, and a lot cheaper than ordering from ACC.

I used this kit for my front disc conversion. In the interest of being transparent, I bought from a mechanic friend for less than retail. Its for a 67 Mustang, but it bolted right up. I run aftermarket 15-inch aluminum slots, but these are supposed to fit stock wheels too. Pirate Jack Kit I...

All posts above are steering you right. While you have your sifter out, check it for looseness and consider rebuilding it - very cheap and easy considering what it does for you and your driving experience. Here is a great video that I referenced when doing mine.

Sorry, it needs swept. The mass backed carpet sits nice and snug, no gapping like the old cheaper version.

I just installed ACC's mass backed carpet in my 71 Mach 1. its good stuff, it just takes a little work to get fitted due to the thickness. If you go this route, order through Rock Auto, much cheaper than ACC direct.

If you aren't worried about concourse-correct, I don't see why you couldn't splice one of these in place of the old connector, and use a little heat shrink over the splice to make it more presentable... worst case do both sides.

I have a Titan lift and really like it. Mine is 7000 pounds, and had no problem with my full size Silverado crew cab. They have an 8000-lb version listed, but their prices have increased (a lot) since I bought mine 7 years ago. When I bought mine, Titan was very competitive in price. I got...

That's brilliant

There are a few good all-ford swap meets held here - a big one inf the fall, and this one in April. We also have a few really good overall car show/swap meets at both the Springfield and Chillicothe fairgrounds every September and March (both are about 45 minutes away from Columbus in different...

Glad that was all it was. You might want to be aware that it may move again - hence my suggestion to get the right lockout rod or wire the lever in the up position.

I've done that, but its been so long I can't give you any useful tips. I do remember thinking it wasn't hard at all.

I forgot about that....

Look at your column/rag joint assembly. At the bottom of the column, near the rag joint there is a lever that usually attaches to a reverse lockout rod from the transmission - most of these cars have had that reverse lockout rod removed for one reason or another, and the column lever can rotate...

I believe ib4stangs is correct. Re: "You can normally tell a Mach 1 by the staggered rear shocks if vin matches" - Many Mach 1s did not have staggered shocks (like my entry-level 302-powered model was when built from Ford).

This is right. My car was an original Mach 1 with a 302, power steering, open highway gears, manual drum brakes, no AC, no tach. About as basic as you can get with a Mach 1..... But its still a Mach 1.

This is a good perspective. Rick/NPD has already explained why shipping is what it is. More often than not its reasonable enough and always fast. Overall, it's about as reasonable as one could ask.

@mrgmhale - Not sure if this was about my post - but to be clear, I was not telling anyone to put a residual valve in the front brake line system. I described plumbing it into the rear lines, in a Front Disc/Rear drum setup, such as the OP was asking about.

I used this kit for my front conversion. In the interest of being transparent, I bought from a mechanic friend for less than retail. Its for a 67 Mustang, but it bolted right up. Pirate Jack Kit I only did the fronts, and chose to remain manual vs go power assist. I also had to source a few...