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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs" data-source="post: 384532" data-attributes="member: 2992">I guess gravity is greater in the south, lol. I have a totally rust free 1973 Mach 1 that was undercoated before I picked it up. I has 12,000 miles on it there is no rust. It bends when I pick up with 2 post with pads under the front torque boxes and adjacent to the front spring mount in the rear. It does not bend as much but it bends.    The 1973 vert is a California car with 48,000 that sat inside for total of 14 years. It has never been painted so I know nothing hidden I have had the whole interior out. When I lift it with 2 post you will not open and shut the doors it bends so far.    The frame shop that does my frame work in Asheville, Silvers, has to straighten highway patrol cars all the time. He said because the drive across the median it twists the bodies and bends them on brand new cars built much better than old mustangs. He will be doing the 73 Grande I have that is an Arizona car and tail light panel nor batter tray has any rust. Has never been painted so no hidden damage. The doors open and close horrible on it. I know it has to be bent from jacking incorrect or driving across a ditch.    When in tech school our Physics teacher was also the shop teacher. We were discussing equal and opposite reactions. He made the statement that if a fly lit on a steel bridge it bent. Lots were saying no way. So we went into the shop set up a .0001" dial indicator and set up a 2" thick 1" wide hardened steel parallel with block under each end. You could bend the 2" thick parallel with one finger easily.    I use to shoot quite a bit but not any more. I had just got a new .300 Winchester Model 70 and took it to work on a Saturday and I had mounted and bedded the scope rings. I had the action and barrel out of the stock and in a vice on mill. I had a hardened steel drill blank in the receiver end of the barrel and a gauge pin at the exit end of the barrel. I indicated in parallel and straight to align bore the rings. I had dial indicator on the barrel end and with one finger could flex the barrel guiet a lot with zero effort just finger pressure. If I remember .010" was very easy to do. That is an alloy steel barrel. Equal and opposite reaction happens all the time nothing you can do to stop it.    I can rembmber standing at the starting line at Bristol when you could be anywhere you wanted in the 1970's. At that time he was running a 1970 Maverick or maybe a 71 which is built the same as mustang. When he would launch at the line the R.H. quarter panel would buckle up horribly and pop back when it settled down. That was with full cage in it. Look at a car launching at the strip, decent 351 could have 500 lb. of torque that twists the chassis several inches as it lifts.    So with all that there is no car made that does not bend and flex. new or old, shiny metal or rust bucket.    I myself would not pay more for a car with perfect caps closed up welded up door edges that is not how Ford made them, I would be afraid of chipping the paint when it does flex.    That trunk gap looks strange for sure but heck my spoiler was factory mounted over 1/2" off and I never noticed it until I was measuring holes for a member.    </blockquote>

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