A couple of things here, if the front sits too high there is no issue with the current springs.
What I do is to decide how far I want the front to go down, then with the car sitting on all fours on level ground I measure the distance from the top of one coil to the top of the next. That gives an amount of vertical drop if 1 coil was removed. Then calculate the distance from the pivot shaft to the spring perch and the disatance from the perch to the ball joint. On our cars it's real close to equal. this gives you the ratio to cut the spring. for example if the coil to coil distance is 1" and the ratio is 50% cutting 1 coil will yield a 2" drop. This is very effective and I've had a ton of success using this method on many different brands and styles of suspensions. A side benefit to cutting your springs is a slight increase in stiffness without killing the ride characteristics. Springs should just support the car's weight, roll control is the job of the swaybars and shocks.
Second, if you replace the springs with higher rate "1 inch lowering" springs, the result will be very unpredictable, depending on the options and weight additions and subtractions to the front of the car.
Finally, the "Shelby/Arning" drop is already built into our cars. Lowering the front pivot further requires significant surgery to the shock tower. From my experience the camber gain in compression is sufficient for a great handling road car. I autocross mine and it handles admirably for a 40 year old car with essentially a stock suspension.
BTW, I dropped the front about 3" on mine, the only worry is crashing the front spoiler on bumper blocks and curbs.
