Recent content by 71coop

Agree with Sherriff41. I think you'll be fine with a 3.00:1 ratio. It should still pretty good for highway driving, and if you have any low end torque will be a bit better from the stoplight. 28 spline setup is fine for street driving, especially if you aren't hammering the **** out it.

I'm running a slightly older version of this heater: Comfort Zone 10000W It's good enough to make a 35 X 22 ft garage reasonably comfortable.

For clarity - Do you mean the square console version of the main cluster clock?

Welcome from Marysville Ohio. That's a really nice-looking car - I like the 73-style side stripes more than the 71/72, and the color combo is sharp. The wheels set it off (Yep I'm biased).

It's a total of seven for the main cluster as shown/discussed, but don't forget 2 for the center gauge pods (if you have them). Other areas to think about are 1 for the heater or AC controller, and if you have the console clock, there should be 2 more in side that assembly.

I've run both a 2.79:1 and a 3.5:1 truetrac in my Mach 1. I do a lot of highway driving, so the 2.79 is actually my preference eof the 2. I also built my 351c to have a pretty broad torque curve so it has plenty for me off the line for street driving. The 3.5 was better off the line and more...

will that fit a 351c?

I ran into the size issue with a Cardone dizzy and the small female cap - initially I just dremeled out a very thin layer around the inside of the plastic cap to get it to fit. A year or so later, I needed to replace the older cap and the replacement caps fit perfectly, so there must be some...

That wheel was used on some mustang II models (74-78). I had a black 1978 4-speed fastback with that style wheel and slotted rims. Wish I had it back.

For jobs like the one pictured, I would agree, the 2 post lift is better. However, 4 post lifts are extremely useful, more than often perceived. I've used my 4-post lift for routine maintenance, engine & transmission swaps, rear end replacement, exhaust and brake work on multiple vehicles, and...

Rocketman can convert your clock to look like a factory tach. It's wired differently, but its only 3 connections. You do NOT have to butcher any factory wiring, and cosmetically you can't tell it's a conversion. You will want a new lens for the entire cluster (it's one piece and that allows...

The resin is a way to go, but seems like more work than it's worth for a simple sail panel replacement & mounting fix. I just went through this, wish I had taken pictures. In my case, I broke the pocket away from the pressboard/paper tabs while test fitting the sail panels to ensure placement...

Hemikiller is correct (as usual). I have a 71 F-code that originally came with a 302/C4 drivetrain. The 3F05F vin code is exactly as he describes, and was a 1971 option. My original engine was long gone when I found the car, and now replaced with a 351C, but my research on the car upholds the...

One and the same

Wow... I've always had reasonably good experience with WCC - what condition/grade did they claim it was in? Looks like this should have been down in the D, E or F area... probably closer to F. If this was supposed to be anything close to driver quality, I would tell them they need to make it...