I really like what you did with the valve covers. Looks like I will have to do that also with my rebuild. Where did you buy the Glyptal as I should use some also. Thx.
40 years ago I had an item like this on my 1970 Corvette to provide power to an electric choke. The copper lug fit under a bolt which the unit provides voltage based on the engine temperature to open the choke gradually as the temperature increases.
When I pulled off the hood for engine removal I noticed that the hood raised and lowered wrong so I tightened the hinge pins by using a large pin and large hammer remove the extra clearance in the pins.
It depends if you want it right or bandaid it. A good body shop can shoot new studs.I bought a professional tool that was sold by NAPA as I do several cars and use the gun to shoot long studs to use with the accompanying slide hammer to pull out dents. Although I am not a body shop I try to do...
Hi Hemi Killer as I will use that part number also on my 1971 car. You must be old like me (76) to remember all of these things. Did you find a supplier for the cloth inserts of my car? I can try to send the picture again of my seats. Thx Bill
I think you are on the right track with it controlling the electric choke after the engine is warmed. Although I will not be driving my 1971 351C mustang in cold weather I am changing from a 2V carb to a 4V Holley and aluminum Edelbrock manifold but using the electric choke for easier starting.
I bought my 1971 fastback 15 months ago as the 2nd owner and had it towed to a shop for fluid changes as it had been sitting in his garage for at least 2 decades. I was disappointed in the shop who didn't change the fluids and the 351C bent 3 push rods. I decided to rebuild the Cleveland engine...
I have used 2 types of protection for lines that comes on rolls and cut to length. The best one is the one that has glass fiber imbedded in silicone and neither is very costly. In any case the exhaust pipes are not much hotter at the rear of the car as it is under the hood where the fuel line...
If you want to have enough threads use an item called a "RIVNUT" which comes in most popular sizes and materials. I am using them in many places on my 1971 351C fastback and the installation tools are readily available. I think the popularity of them may have originated in the aircraft industry...
In my change over I added the Scott Drake needle bearings to my automatic pedal assembly and installed the Modem Driveline clutch pedal and trimmed the automatic pedal pad as instructed.
If you have the pan off why not change the rod and main bearings to improve the clearances? My machine shop set my established clearances as I mentioned that the car was a street driven Mustang. I went around and around and insisted to to fellow who assembled the short block that the engine was...
I really like the sheen of the black paint you have used and am wondering where to get it am assuming you sprayed it on. I had my engine bay blasted to bare metal and would mine to look as good as yours. Thx, Bill
My 1971 fastback shock towers were real rusty so I am replacing them with a set of used ones from a Cougar yard in Washington state who shipped them to me. They were in excellent condition and will cut them to your request and send pictures of them before shipping them to you. They are nice...
I have a Edelbrock F351 aluminum manifold that has been blasted which looks like new for $225.00. I does not have any repair cracks. Pictures can be sent. Thx, Obi One