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Still looking for the fender/ cowl connector and now a stock mustang cross member, see pics in original post, thanks for the help

Its not in a mustang, but still a pretty cool over the hood shot in a dirt track super street car from a go pro.

Updated pictures on the build process form the past couple weeks, got the floor pans replaced and all finished up, modified some couple seat mounts to fit in the fastback, and removed the rusted out cowl section and in the process of replacing it with a new one.

I just got done doing most of the stuff you are talking about and have documented it in a lot of pictures in the order i did them in. I cut 1 small hole in each corner of the quarters to make the trunk access easier, then did the trunk, then one quarter at a time, and finally the floor work...

I believe it was if i remember correctly as that was a picture when we picked up the car up in Maryland from the guy that stripped a couple parts out of the car before i bought it for his other projects.

Yea that 73 is my Mustang that really got me into these cars, i have had it for about 12 years now and use it as my daily driver, but when i calear up the schedule will make it a really nice car one day.

Thanks guys i apprechiate it, I will post more when i get some more progress made!!!

So this 72 Mustang will be built from me collecting 2 different Mach 1’s and had to assemble them into one car to get a title in NC for it as they won’t title a car in pieces, Now that I have the title in hand I started to disassemble it and begin the rebuild process. I started this project...

The shimes are really hard to see and are directly behind the throwout bearing to be able to get to them after the trans has been pulled off the engine (this is why these are such a pain in the ass to get right, the process of trial and error sucks when you have to pull a transmmission), as they...

I also use valvoline oil, but unlike everyone else posting here so far I add in one bottle of Lucas Engine Break in additive. I read the article on the myths of additives, but also found the comment a few down on the Shell oil company to be a good response to the article. There is a difference...

I would pull off the valve covers, if an exhaust valve is stuck closed for some reason the combustion gasses have to go somewhere so that will cause a loud pop to come out the carb, this could be a cam lobe wiped out, bent pushrod, broken rocker arm or stud.

Everything to me looks good except iooks like you are missing the radio bezel. Here is two examples on what i am talking about...

There is a good possability it may be slipping if you have too many shim in between the transmission and the throwout bearing. They make a tool to actually get the measurement called a Hydraulic Release Bearing Set-Up Tool, included a link listed below. However when i set up my hydrolic clutch...

Before you jump directly into painting your car, get some sheet metal panels and practice first on them. Its a lot cheaper to learn and mess up on of them then have a cars worth of materials wasted and have to sand down an entire car. You can also practice building a smaller paint area around...

Sounds like its time to either replace with a good working third member or to find someone that know's what their doing to pull everything apart in that section and rebuild it, check gears, replace all bearings and seals, and reset all clearences and backlask. By the time you keep trying to hunt...

Take the project in small sections, one area at a time, that seems to work for me. Put the parts you don't need away in labeled boxes for a while so you don't have to see them, it may help you be less overwhelmed. Nothing is better then crusing around in something you have sweat equity into and...

Did you put the origional "leaky" gearset back in the car or the one with the crackes in it. I personally would never put a chipped set of gears in a rear end, as any sort of chip or crack would be a sign to me that the gears life is over. When the guy put the "new seal so the grease would not...

Its not a bad idea you at least are heading in the right direction, i think a lot depends on your rear wheel backspacing and the tire width and height your trying to fit in there. I think the only issue is the clearence and the work you come up with on the outer wheel house will be unused with...

If you take out the sections with rust in small seperate pieces and one area at a time you can mimic the factory bends and seams a little better. Don't go and cut everything out at once, as it will be harder to get it to look origional. Use the pieces you cut out as templates to get your new...

Honestly it doesn't look too bad, you will know more if you take a flap disk or a surface prep disk and remove the paint and any other filler that may be in that area. If its not any worse then it looks in the pictures a lower quarter panel patch panel and get some 18 gauge sheet metal and with...