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1973 was the first year of the electric-assisted hot air choke. You should have a white wire with black stripe in the engine harness. That's the wire originally connected to the choke, it receives power from the alternator stator post.

The Pertronix I or II can run on the resistor wire, but it can interfere with the proper tach reading. Best practice is to power the module by itself. You can use the Red w/Yellow hash wire originally for the anti-dieseling solenoid to power the Pertronix. That'll deliver a full 12V in Start and...

Since you're committed to owning the 4V heads, why not use them? As Chuck noted, the majority of issues with 4V heads can be traced back to poor cam choices or an unsuitable application to begin with.

No, it's legit. This is what happens when you listen to 65-70 guys on pricing a 71-73.

Looks to me like the window is sitting to far back in the opening. The lower edge simply sits on top of the body. I also suggest that he put loops of fishing line or dental floss around each clip to allow them to be pulled away from the body to help with installation of the molding. The repop...

For 1971, the Mach 1 Sports interior was an oddity. The tach was not part of it, you had to order the Instrumentation Group as well. Ford fixed that in 1972 and incorporated the tach into the Mach 1 Sports Interior option.

If you're looking for max bang for the buck, here's what I suggest Heads - throw the factory multigroove valves, retainers and keepers in the trash. Have your guy test the factory springs, if they're within spec, then hand onto them. Get a new set of one piece Ferrea, Manley or...

Clean and solid looking '72 Mach 1 in Florida for what I believe to be a bargain price. I advised him it was likely worth more, but he apparently listened to the 65-66 guys. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1972-mustang-mach-1-for-sale.1225705/

9/16/71 would be a 72 model year engine, as production started usually the first week of August. Engines can be build weeks ahead of time. Ford didn't switch to dished pistons in the 351C until the 1973 model year, contrary to what's commonly passed around on the internet. The same flat top...

sending PM

Nice looking car, congrats on the purchase. Can't remember the last time I saw a set of Kelly Chargers. It'd be a good idea to check the date codes on those puppies.

Let's start with what cam exactly do you have? Post a pic of the cam card. A stock 71 short block with 62cc 70 4V heads will yield about 9.8:1 compression ratio. Ford's published CR numbers were a complete fabrication. https://diamondracing.net/p-10-compression-calculator.html

Honestly, probably the most reasonable price I've seen offered by a dealer in recent memory. The car looks very clean and rust free from the pics. That could change when it's on a lift, but seems like a solid buy.

Please post a couple pics of the pulley setup currently on your engine. Power steering is a direct bolt on. New and reman steering boxes are available, as are pump and lines. The 71-73 PS setup is a very simple bolt in swap. The difficulty usually ends up being the pulleys.

If you want to keep it interesting, get a square bore D0AE-L intake, add a spreadbore adapter and run a Quadrajet. That'll keep 'em guessing.

Nothing says quality like wire nuts and electrical tape

You need to add a cable from the battery (-) terminal to the fender apron. Unless there is another engine to body ground strap hiding somewhere we can't see, you have no ground connection from the battery to the chassis. Engine, trans and radiator are all rubber mounted.

Looks like a great project. These dry Southwestern cars are amazing to us up here in the Rust Belt. My 71 Squire spent much of it's life in the desert areas of Oregon. No rust at all except for one tiny hole in the bottom of the spare tire well.

Yeah, you stole that. Welcome from CT

Looks like you have aftermarket battery cables, which means the factory battery to chassis ground is no longer present. These cars did not use the head to firewall ground strap. The factory negative cable had a strap that attached to the fender apron by the lower fastener (of the no longer...