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FBM is easy and it's free, so it's pretty much everyone's go-to now. Craigslist is just overridden with keyword spamming dealers and it's $5 to list a car.

A quick skim and I find his position refreshing, in that the true answer is "it depends on your application". One thing to remember in the ported vs manifold debate, is that an engine with an emissions tuned distributor (like those factory in our cars) will *usually* have a huge amount of...

I'd source a used one before I made one, and I work in sheet metal.

$1200 is a lot for a set of heads that needs a pile of money in parts and machine work. At that price point, aluminum heads make more sense.

The 71 had points, so it was all contained inside the distributor. The coil was mounted to the intake on the front passenger side. The MSD on my old '71 was mounted it under the washer fluid tank. If you have enough wire length to move it there, it's a good spot and out of the way.

I thought your car was an M-code? The default wheel for this generation Mustang seems to be the Magnum 500. Everyone runs them, to the point they're approaching passé. The trim rung and hubcap combo was standard equipment and IMO looks sharp on these cars. I ran them for many years and still do...

71 wiring diagrams are in the Wiki section https://wiki.7173mustangs.com/ Like CC said, the sport lamps from the factory would only illuminate with the headlamps on. How you wire it is up to you.

Heat is generated by resistance. Resistance causes voltage drops. It's more likely that your cable is bad than the starter. The starter relay simply connects the battery (+) to the starter cable.

WoolWax, FluidFilm and other lanolin and "oil undercoat" products really aren't something you'd use on the exterior underside of a restored car. I'd use them as a cavity wax product, to protect the interior of the frame rails, doors, quarters and other areas. They stay soft and are messy to work...

Bring a Trailer might work out well. You could also talk to Finley at the Blue Oval Car Barn. They buy 429 cars all the time, and will give it the care it deserves. https://1971mustangs.com/about-blue-oval-car-barn/

First thing to check is that you actually have an engine to chassis ground path. Very common for this to be missing on our cars. Factory chassis ground point was the lower screw for the voltage regulator (#9) If yours is present, or an alternative is present, and the cables and connections...

The other side of my yard was 25 triaxle loads of fill, plus another 5 of topsoil. I have a big pile of topsoil that I stripped off so hopefully I won't need any. I think I'll be at 2 loads of 1 1/4 process for the base and 3 of 3/4 for the topcoat. Then it gets to sit over the winter and settle.

What Midlife said... If you've upgraded to halogen headlights, you may simply be drawing too much for the headlight circuit breaker to handle. I ended up running a relay harness for my Cibie H4 headlights and no more problems.

Chuck @c9zx did a thread on the urethane bumper, it's in the tutorials section.

That rust is pretty typical. The pocket was supposed to be filled with seam sealer to allow water to run out the two notches - which didn't happen all the time. I'd cut and patch as needed, your rust isn't bad at all considering what I usually see here in the northeast. Many of the replacement...

The lower stepped portion of the bumper was painted black. Those that aren't have been repainted and the black was never reapplied. You can see the black in the photos of this 60 mile 73 convertible...

Been playing in the dirt the last couple weeks. Currently at nine triaxles of fill so far. This is what I started with in May. Six dumpsters of brush and past-it's-prime firewood went away.

I bought the Ford tooling pad in Medium Blue from NPD back in '06 and have no complaints. Keep in mind that color will and should vary slightly from part to part. If everything was a perfect match, the interior would look very "flat". You'll notice my interior has different hues from part to...

Some before and after pics are all that you'll need. Don't have a recommendation on undercoating.

That is the correct bypass tube for the 351C. You can peen the edge over a bit to get it started in the block. Be sure you clean the bore in the block and that there's no rust or left over pieces of the old tube.