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If it's fine up 'til around 35mpg, then you likely have a fuel delivery issue, as in lack of fuel. A simple test is to disconnect the fuel line from the carb and run the pump into a container. You should have a solid, steady stream pumping through. If the stream of fuel is weak, or tapers off...

From back to front crank - water pump -power steering pump crank - alternator crank - idler - AC compressor FYI - you have the incorrect AC compressor clutch assembly. Ford switched to a large diameter flywheel setup to reduce belt noise. Something to think about down the road.

Ah, that makes sense, thought the distributor looked a bit dirty for a fresh reman. Those pickups are used in a multitude of applications. A ground strap can't hurt, even something temporary. You'd think it would be unnecessary with so many contact points to the housing, but.... Is the ground...

Maybe try grounding the breaker plate. Pop a screw through the lug in the distributor harness, tie the other end to the block.

Yeah, those seem like the size would be an issue for some jobs. They'd be really handy for assembly line type work, or the guys at the Toyota dealerships replacing frames... ;)

they always come back....

The filler pieces are molded urethane, so you could likely use heat to form it back to conform to the quarter. The piece is hold in place to the quarter with two studs on a piece of sheetmetal that's molded into the part. If the urethane split and that is pulling out, there are several urethane...

Listing states it's a C-code non-Ram Air CJ. As This car has been touched - alot. You can't assume anything. https://www.classicauctions.ch/de/auktionsfahrzeuge/auktionslot/detail/1716641645

Lots of e-compressors out there in OEM land, think Prius, Tesla, C-Max etc. I'd assume pretty much any hybrid will have an e-compressor. Might be worth scavenging something off a wrecked vehicle, then you can get the power cables and connectors.

Ad says it has a "mexican style" VIN, but doesn't show it. Door panels don't match the MexiStangs we've seen, those are US panels. It's jsut a cobbled together mess of parts, so it's tough to tell what it was/is without a VIN.

That's a fraction - 0.9hp 1 hp = 745 watts Fox Mustangs had a WOT AC cutoff switch, I'm sure others did as well.

Looking at the website, they're showing 600W, 60/70 amp draw. Other than having sufficient alternator capacity, it's a good idea and likely way more efficient than a York recip compressor. 600W is about 9/10 hp. You'll definitely be in 3G territory for an alternator, likely a double V-belt or...

More than likely a 429 from a T-bird or full size car as you suspect, but hard to pass judgement without seeing the casting numbers and under the breather and valvecovers. You would need to get the block, head and intake casting numbers to start with. https://www.mustangtek.com/

Put a classified ad here on the forum. Craigslist is another option, FB Marketplace as well. Buyers will want to see lots of clear pics, VIN number, door data tag etc.

I would never use filler to any of those patch holes, it's just going to fail and you'll be right back where you are in no time. A wire feed MIG welder is not a huge expense, you can learn on your own and have much better results that'll last. A bad welded patch is 100x better than well done...

My oil pressure sensor failed in the driveway heading out for the first drive on the new engine. That was about a half second of severe pucker factor until I looked at the mechanical gauge. @Rocketman should have the diagram for his tach conversions.

Been using #1 and #3 for 35 years, just depends on what I'm doing. The strut.png is the steering linkage, do not jack up there. Whoever told you to use that is someone to ignore. #2 is the front sway bar, really don't want to jack up on that.

On the 351C, the block fitting is the outlet, which goes to the innermost tube on the heater core. This is also the hose that should have the flow control valve on AC cars. The heater core outermost tube is the outlet, and that connects to the inlet fitting on the water pump. The water pump...

A bit of history - the 1973 cars were the first year for EGR. Ford used a "dual area" vacuum modulator on their automatics to raise the shift points when the EGR was active - hence the four place vacuum tree on the firewall and the two steel lines running down to the modulator. See the vacuum...

Sorry if I wasn't clear, it is a Mach 1. 3 - 1973 F - Dearborn assembly 05 - Mach 1 sportsroof F - 302-2V engine 132712 - 32,712th Mustang serialized at Dearborn. Not a lot of people realize that the 71-73 Mach 1 came with the 302 as the base engine and a flat hood unless otherwise optioned...