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Mine had the ford part number and rating cast into the housing. Visible from above, beside the upper mount/pivot bolt. Where yours has the 10, mine has an 8 in that same spot and i guess the same font.

The alternator looks like it could be original. Look for the markings on it.

I just went out and checked my box of parts. I'm not seeing the ford logo i thought there was on the pistons. Its is there on the water pump. On the valves, about 3/4 of my smaller walves, i can make out FOMOCO cast into the top of them. I'd also look at the brakes and suspension. With 89k...

I vote look for the nylon timing gear. Wouldn't expect one of those to go 189k miles. And i have the original parts that came off my motor. I'd have to double check, but i believe the pistons and water pump all have ford logos on them. Should be able to see the logo on the pistons from the...

I remember the first time I learned of the foxbody mercury capri. It was the same car as the mustang GT, but I had always associated the "capri" name with little 4-banger girly cars.

4th digit of the VIN will tell you. 2 is a fastback, 5 is a mach1. Should be on the dash and on the buck tag under the hood. If you know that yours is the original front end, the grille and headlight bezels are different between fastback and mach1. Silver headlight bezels and a large "horse...

I just say no, its a fastback. If they are still interested, I may offer up that its the same car as a mach1, just with different cosmetic stuff like the grille.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/products/gen-ii-stealth-fuel-tank-71-73-mustang

The evaprust can be reused a ton of times. Even after its black and looks like crap, it still works. And there isn't a concern for it weakening the metal if you leave it in there.

Does the sniper have an ethanol content detector? The stoichiometric AFR for normal gas is 14.7. For gas with 10% ethanol is 14.3. With 15% ethanol, its 14.1. I assume for 27% ethanol, you would be looking at something closer to 13.5 AFR for cruise and 12.5 under load. Does the sniper know...

Nope. On the car with the qa1 stacker shocks, i'm still rocking the worn out 50yr old springs. On my other one with the qa1 coilovers, i went with their 500lb shock option.

Technically the engine lasted a decade. You ran the clock out on being able to complain to him.

We had another thread on the fake movie car. I think its kinda posery.

Well, you cut your springs, man. Can't really be surprised when it bottoms out. :D Were these the 51yr old worn out springs you cut? I'm running the QA1 TS601 and TS402 on one of my cars. I put both of them on the setting it says in the instructions for a starting point and haven't felt the...

Its sold in harbor freight and oreiley auto parts stores here. It really is amazing stuff. I've had bolts that were rusted so bad they needed penetrating oil to get loose. Soak them in evaporust and they look brand new the next day. No scrubbing. I just wipe them off with blue paper...

I vote while you have it apart, you put back in some sort of functional heater, even if its aftermarket. It'll never be easier than right now. Some day you may end up driving in the rain and need a defroster.

There are too many variables to make a broad statement like H pipe or X pipe will always add power. If you could say that, then you would see people running X pipes on all their dyno runs to milk out every last horsie power. Personally, I go with neither. Just straight duals all the way to...

Molasses works, but is slow. There are videos on the youtube of people soaking entire car bodies in molasses to strip rust. They take a couple weeks. You can go to harbor freight or oreileys and buy a jug of evaporust to soak your parts in and they are rust free after 24 hours.

Sometimes you need a pry bar. After you remove the bolts/pins, the caliper can be seized up on the rotor. Pry up at the edge. Do 1 side, then the other, then the first one, and wiggle it off like that. Right about where this arrow is pointing. And in some designs, the little springy clips...

BAN OP!!!!! :D