Search results

Same here. I use flare wrenches and flare crows feet. The tools linked look cool, but also look bulky. I could see having some trouble fitting that guy onto the back of a wheel cylinder or caliper due to clearance issues. I have a similar issue with the fancy set of milwaukee floppy-headed...

We use this often in the 3D printing hobby. Just acetone and scraps of ABS dissolved in a glass jar. Legos and barbie dolls are another source for ABS, supposedly. OP may go rob a gray lego out of his kids' bucket and dissolve it with acetone to make a filler paste. :D

I'd do the superglue+baking soda combo. Lots of videos on the youtubes about how strong that one is. My concern would be after you fill it in and drill it, then try to run the screw into the new hole, some other part of the 50yr old plastic may crack. So don't drill the pilot hole too tight...

According to these 2 links, its around 3.5HP required to run, which still isn't terrible. https://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml https://www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/common/watts-amps.php 600w @ 12v is 50amp. Divide by their 15, and I got 3.5HP (ish).

These get their power from the battery, and the battery gets its power from the alternator. When you increase electrical load of 12v thingies on a car, the alternator puts more load on the engine to generate more power. So unless their kit has some sort of switch that gets pressed when you hit...

Oh, I read that as 9 or 10. Thats a bit of a difference. :D I know the LS-swap-it-bro computers turn off the AC compressor at WOT.

Do these kits have some mechanism to turn off the AC compressor when you stomp on the gas pedal? That 10hp they require doesn't matter as much when you're cruising around only using 50HP anyways. But you put your foot down and go WOT, you probably care more about the car going as fast as it...

You could get pretty sneaky with where you mounted it, too. Like mount it inside the fender, hidden behind the splash shield.

Belt driven type just disengage the clutch when the AC doesn't need to run. The pulley spins, but not the rest of the compressor. It doesn't use any more power from the engine like that than an idler pulley. It actually should use less power from the engine, since the circumference of the AC...

Seems like it would require a manlier alternator and wiring. Maybe even converting to a 3G alternator. And how does the math work out about being less parasitic? It takes a certain amount of energy from the motor to run the AC compressor. In the old configuration, the motor directly turns...

The thing you have to watch out for is some of these body guys will string the customer along. Like I mentioned earlier, there's a lot of rust in that car you haven't seen yet. You will start seeing it when you start cutting into it to repair what you can see. It is a common business practice...

The ol' cut-n-butt king.

The rust at the corner of the windshield looks extra crunchy. Rule of thumb with an old car is if there's something rusted that bad that you can see, there's 20x that much that you can't see. Adjust your expectations. Its like mice in your house. If you see 1, you have 20 in the walls. And...

The problem with measuring from the arch to the ground is that different size tires and wheels throw your number off. If you measure to the center of the wheel, then that takes the size of the tires and wheels out of the equation. That way you are only measuring the suspension.

What's the measurement from the center of the wheel to the fender arch? That's how ford specifies the spec in the manuals. There are different specs depending on what suspension your car came with. The competition suspension sets a bit lower than the base model. It could be that QA1 designed...

I thought the flat hood and 302 were the bare minimum that came with the mach1 package in 73. You could get the nasa hood if you wanted, but it wasn't the default. Otherwise, somebody would have put some money into adding the mach1 grille and black headlight buckets and the stripes to a base...

Are you sure your modulator is working and that its getting vacuum signal? It could be a matter of the modulator not doing anything at all and the transmission is falling back to the mechanical governor. If there is vacuum signal making it all the way back there, it may be worth it to try the...

Here's the email from the order. I guess that 17500-3T is the part number. $200 core. And if you want them to give you a shipping label to return your core, it was $35. So after tax and shipping both ways and refunding the core, it was like $432.

Same here. I put one in my mach1 a couple years ago. No ragrats. The factory one in my fastback leaks bad and needs replaced. When I get around to doing that one, I'm going with redhead again. I may stick with the non-quick ratio this go around. I'm still on the fence.

I used the total control products bump steer eliminator tie rod ends on a couple of my old cars. They work well and i was able to dial them in to get the bumpsteer down to just a few thousandths of an inch over the whole travel of the suspension.