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I would reach out to Motor City Mustang and see if he has some good, used rockers. In 71 they started galvanizing the rockers I believe. You don't see many rotten 71-73 rockers out there, just collision damage. kcmash

OK, you asked for it. I am an engineer and here is my opinion. When you open the scoops on our cars you should install hood locks or some other secondary latch system. The reason is this, due to the location of the scoops on the hood, they can grab a lot of air, this causes a significant...

I have heard that the C7ZZ has a smaller steering box receiver than the D1ZZ. I have a call in to Lares to see if they offer rebuild there. If not, I now have potential access to a riveter, so I may buy the rebuild kit disk and just refurbish it myself. kcmash

That sounds a bit scary to me. If you hear the oil raining down like that it would indicate that your oil is staying in the top side of the engine, and draining down when you shut it off. If that is the case, you may be starving the pan of oil needed to splash on the lower end and cool the...

I appreciate the input. I sent a request for information to Lars. I am going to see if they will just rivet a new rubber isolator into my original rag joint. kcmash

Sheriff41, I do plan to shop around some. I have seen the price of the part lower on line, but I usually see $15 for shipping. I used your Rock auto link to contact Lares and see if they will R&R my original so it looks correct. I figure they might since they are US based and have the...

So here is my potential solution. One of the recommended rag joint replacements for the 71 is the Lares 201. This has the lower coupling riveted in place and the hardware for the steering column flange on the non-tilt cars. I plan to drill the rivets out for my steering column casting, and...

So here is my latest thought. Buy the Lares 202. Cut the steering column side rivets on my original, bolt that to the Lares with the included fasteners and I have a new Rag joint for my tilt column! How does that sound for a DIY solution? kcmash

I have been through it all too. Rebuilt box, all new suspension, new alignment, good tires, rebuilt column. Mine wanders a little at center. Feels like I can oversteer at any time on a 2 lane road. I found play when I twist on the rag joint, so I am going to replace/rebuild that. I am...

Has anyone tried sending a Rag joint in for refurb? Will Borgesun replace the rubber disk and rivet your flanges back on? Mine needs the rubber replaced so I am swimming in the same pond as you guys at the moment. kcmash

I thought my classic car insurance was through Hagerty, but my Allstate rep switched it to a place called Essentia Insurance Company. I am leaving Allstate this month. kcmash

I am NOT a fan of the PIII either. After a year of trying to get my car to keep running, I returned it and went points. I can now drive my car any time without chasing that f'n gremlin! And, my tach works! kcmash -not bitter at all

Probably. Of course the specialty pins usually have a specialty tool to crimp the terminals on.

I am going to pull my tilt column for a rebuild. I am planning to put a reproduction Turn Signal switch in, but I notice the repop comes with no terminals on the wires. I do not want to cut the wires off my original tilt column switch harness, so I am looking for anyone who may have an old...

Did you get the 4 Seasons motor from Rock Auto? I bought that one and think I got a motor for a heater only. Mine does not have the blower speed of the original motor. I may have a new bearing put in my original and just put that one back in.

I set mine around 800 to 850. I want to keep the oil splashing and pumping.

I thought the original post asked for our opinions. 1) Refurbished or unrefurbished original parts 2) NOS 3) Repop or aftermarket My opinions Kcmash

Agreed on the Edelbrock being different. The 351 4V is known for not having enough intake velocity at low RPM. So the Edelbrock reduced the intake ports size to increase low RPM performance. On the exhaust side, the 351-4V manifolds have larger ports than most headers, so I see no need to...

Black smoke is indicative of a rich fuel mixture. Blue smoke is oil, and white is antifreeze or water. So if you have black smoke, you could have a choke that is hanging closed too long, or you could have a sticking needle in the carb. A lot of ethanol based fuels are not good on carburetors...

Actually there is a little bracket hole near the front of the door very near the top. You can use a zip tie or a cable loop and that should work for you. It worked for me. Kcmash