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I see that now. Damn they need to clarify their instructions. Do you think it will make any difference? I sure dont want to tear all that apart and redo it, especially with all those bolts in with red loctite. I had to break one of those loose yesterday and the only way I could get it loose...

I love it when people do stuff like this. Its always interesting to see how something new fits into something old and what modifications you have to make. I know your going to pull that dash out again, please try to take more pictures to show what you had to modify to make it fit. Id really...

Hmmm,  Looking at this picture in the instructions, it looks like its one way for disc spindles and the other way for drum spindles.

Well phase 1 is complete! Brakes are on! We test fit the wheel and there are no clearance ussues!. Now comes the hard part, removing the master cylinder and installing the brake booster and disc master cylinder. Getting the dust cap on was interesting. I suppose I could have just pounded on...

yea I hear ya Fabrice. We fought hard today, We got the caliper bracket on one side, got the lines situated on both sides. The biggest pain today was finding a 12 point socket. I dont have any. The lock nuts for the caliper bracket were 12 point. So I went to Ace Hardware, nope, Advanced...

45 years is a long time to trust something that can burn your car down if it fails.

Once its painted, run all new brake and fuel lines with new clips and hardware. You wont want to even try once the engine is installed.

Yea that is true. Nothing in there is rusted. It's all got 1/4" to 1/2" thick mud and oil. Some of this metal hasn't seen daylight in 30 to 40 years I think.

No problem getting the caliper bracket mounted.

The holes in the spindle are for disc spindles I believe, at least that's what the instructions say. Anyway, 3 hours in, were still cleaning crud off of everything. Its amazing how much caked on crap on all the suspension there is.

I'm more than confident that everything will work great. I've seen a few videos and the only pain seems to be getting the calipers centered with the correct shims. This part should be a piece of cake. The real bear of this is going to be the brake booster and brake pedal portion. All that stuff...

I ordered this kit from summit Wednesday and it came in today, friday. Great service from summit as always. The box was in tact. It had no over packing box. But it was undamaged,  which is amazing seeing it weighs 60 lbs. Opening the box, it looks like a bunch of parts thrown in a box. No fancy...

Awesome job Tony! It's on my list.

Heres the finished product. You can hardly tell its been painted. I put 4 light coats on it. I'm going to let it dry overnight and look at it in the morning to see if I need more.

@Mister 4x4 If your master on the car is a rusty crusty mess, and you dont want to take it off to paint it, and I really wouldnt either, There are many ways you can go. What I personally would do, Go to harbor freight, get a package of brushes for a dremel tool, These are a package that have...

Im going to give the Eastwood stuff a try. Its going on a NEW master cylinder so hopefully theres no rust on it yet. If so, I will clean it up. I also got their Paint Prep product as well to clean it..

Anyone know where I can get a brake booster gasket?  All I see at the usual places is the Bendix gasket, which is different.  If theres nothing, I was thinking of getting some blank gasket material and cutting one out. Anyone have a picture of one?

Thanks T5!

Dont think I have one of those on the 302.

I havnt hooked up the ***** light switch yet, so I dont know what it does for sure. From what I gather, it doesnt matter which wire goes to which terminal. Oh and thanks to everyone for posting up other sites where I can find the parts cheaper. I think my best bet so far is Summit with the...