Front Disc Conversion to clear 14" magnums

[jowens1126]

Im looking for information on a front brake kit that will clear 14" Drum car Magnum 500 wheels.

Im ready to buy the kit from NPD, so any help would be great.  I know some fit, some need grinding, some need wheel spacers.  Id like to find one that just Fits.

 

[Bentworker]

Would OEM disk brakes work for you?

 

[turtle5353]

Thats what i was thinking...... find a donor car and grab the spindles off it. Thats the route i went and they work great. Im sure Don at OMS has some.

 

[jowens1126]

This is the kit im looking at getting. It says it clears most 14" Wheels. I guess im going to have to just get it and see.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/disc-brake-conversion-kit-wilwood-classic-series-dynalite/196761/200836?year=1971

 

[Hemikiller]

Looks like a good kit. Not sure why they don't supply dust shields, but Wilwood knows what they're doing. You might want to call them about a recommendation for a master cylinder and proportioning valve, since they're not included in the kit.

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-13477&year=1971&make=Ford&model=Mustang&option=Drum+Brake+Front+Spindle

FYI - you can save over $100 if you buy it from Summit or Jegs and use their $50 of $500 coupon codes at the top of the page.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-13477/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOvsBRAjEiwAuY7L8sv8xWsAvZccd5DxQziRT1Xcw9iRNn3maXRR4xSkM9s4NlexRd1PhhoCkDUQAvD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=140-13477

 

[Stanglover]

On my car, I went with SSBC Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston conversion kit from NPD. NO need to change spindles and they DO fit 14" magnum 500's.  That's what I have on mine.

The kit was easy to fit in an afternoon. However, I replaced ALL my front lines with pre-bent SS which are a bit harder to work with. Regardless, probably a good time to put new lines in. Do it once, do it right!

Geoff.

 

[jowens1126]

We already replaced all the lines with stainless. So that much is done.

I also have a brake booster and a oem disc brake pedal that I'm going to use. I will also swap the master cylinder too.

 

[Stanglover]

We already replaced all the lines with stainless.  So that much is done.

I also have a brake booster and a oem disc brake pedal that I'm going to use.  I will also swap the master cylinder too.

 Bonus! Half way there.

My "kit" came with a separate rear bias valve, so front and back are totally separated systems.

 

[jowens1126]

When we did the SS lines, I went ahead and put one of these Wilwood Proportional valves in.  My next step I suppose is to go ahead and pull the master, and brake pedal assembly out.  Take it apart, send it out to be powered coated, then install the new OEM Disc brake pedal along with the Brake Booster and new Master Cylinder.

 

[nailpounder]

c j pony has that kit for 575 $   AND THEY WILL HAVE A BLACK FRIDAY SALE FOR 10% OFF   AND I CAUGHT A 15% OFF SALE  I PAD BEFORE TAX ABOUT 525$

 

[Stanglover]

When we did the SS lines, I went ahead and put one of these Wilwood Proportional valves in.  My next step I suppose is to go ahead and pull the master, and brake pedal assembly out.  Take it apart, send it out to be powered coated, then install the new OEM Disc brake pedal along with the Brake Booster and new Master Cylinder.

 I might upgrade to one of those as with the system I have currently, I lost my brake failure warning light. I see that has one built in. I need to check that out.

Thanks, 

Geoff.

 

[tony-muscle]

When we did the SS lines, I went ahead and put one of these Wilwood Proportional valves in.  My next step I suppose is to go ahead and pull the master, and brake pedal assembly out.  Take it apart, send it out to be powered coated, then install the new OEM Disc brake pedal along with the Brake Booster and

 I might upgrade to one of those as with the system I have currently, I lost my brake failure warning light. I see that has one built in. I need to check that out.

Thanks, 

Geoff.

BTW, that switch is to indicate you are pressing the brakes. It is not a brake failure warning switch.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[jowens1126]

I havnt hooked up the ***** light switch yet, so I dont know what it does for sure. From what I gather, it doesnt matter which wire goes to which terminal.

Oh and thanks to everyone for posting up other sites where I can find the parts cheaper. I think my best bet so far is Summit with the Ocotober promo code. It ends up about $100 cheaper than NPD. I like NPD because is only about 30 mins from my house, so I love to go up there to get parts, then stroll thru the warehouse looking at the $10,000,000,000,000,000 car collection they have in there.

 

[Stanglover]

When we did the SS lines, I went ahead and put one of these Wilwood Proportional valves in.  My next step I suppose is to go ahead and pull the master, and brake pedal assembly out.  Take it apart, send it out to be powered coated, then install the new OEM Disc brake pedal along with the Brake Booster and

 I might upgrade to one of those as with the system I have currently, I lost my brake failure warning light. I see that has one built in. I need to check that out.

Thanks, 

Geoff.

BTW, that switch is to indicate you are pressing the brakes. It is not a brake failure warning switch.

 Tony, that's different isn't it? The original only comes on IF the fluid is too low and/or the pressure drops. Or so I thought anyway. Had two total brake failures on cars, a Mach 1 included and frankly, never had time to even think about if the light came on or not, too busy trying not to wreck.

I'll definitely look into that in more detail, so thanks for mentioning it.

 

[tony-muscle]

 I might upgrade to one of those as with the system I have currently, I lost my brake failure warning light. I see that has one built in. I need to check that out.

Thanks, 

Geoff.

BTW, that switch is to indicate you are pressing the brakes. It is not a brake failure warning switch.

 Tony, that's different isn't it? The original only comes on IF the fluid is too low and/or the pressure drops. Or so I thought anyway. Had two total brake failures on cars, a Mach 1 included and frankly, never had time to even think about if the light came on or not, too busy trying not to wreck.

I'll definitely look into that in more detail, so thanks for mentioning it.

The original comes on when there is a pressure differential between the front and rear, which would happen when there is a failure, but it is only on after you press the brakes. The one in the Wilwood valve comes on whenever there is pressure to the front section of the valve, which would occur whenever you press the pedal. I have the same valve so now I don't have a failure switch. It is one of the disadvantages of the Wilwood MC because it has an aluminum lid so you don't know when you are low in liquid until you remove the lid. I wish it had a window to look at the level.

 

[Stanglover]

BTW, that switch is to indicate you are pressing the brakes. It is not a brake failure warning switch.

 Tony, that's different isn't it? The original only comes on IF the fluid is too low and/or the pressure drops. Or so I thought anyway. Had two total brake failures on cars, a Mach 1 included and frankly, never had time to even think about if the light came on or not, too busy trying not to wreck.

I'll definitely look into that in more detail, so thanks for mentioning it.

The original comes on when there is a pressure differential between the front and rear, which would happen when there is a failure, but it is only on after you press the brakes. The one in the Wilwood valve comes on whenever there is pressure to the front section of the valve, which would occur whenever you press the pedal. I have the same valve so now I don't have a failure switch. It is one of the disadvantages of the Wilwood MC because it has an aluminum lid so you don't know when you are low in liquid until you remove the lid. I wish it had a window to look at the level.

 That's interesting Tony. Something I'll admit I had not really paid much attention too before, but thinking about it, yes, that makes sense. 

Thanks for clearing that up,

Geoff.

 

[mustang7173]

Look at Master Power Brakes

https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake-conversion-kit/1971-ford-mustang-legend-series-front.asp?catid=2EA5AE87269D4D97827E85270E0B57D3

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