I appreciate the suggestion as you are correct the LS and 600hp is possible. I am not a big LS fan as there are many ways to make the same power with fords. It Is a great engine, but has be come the 350/350 of todays time. The 429/460 family of engines can make a lot of power without a lot of...
I know it’s possible to do the 500-600 all motor, but you are correct there will be sacrifices to be made to street ability. I may go with a power adder blower or nitrous to have it a little more street-able.
If I stay with the original block it will be a 408 stroker build. My thoughts were...
So I pull the engine and trans out today. Found out I have a number matching transmission as well. My next decision is do I want risk the block and transmission hot rodding them? Goal is 500-600Hp. Or do I get a different engine and build it up instead?
What is everyone’s thoughts?
It sounds like the starter is getting stuck on the fly wheel. Pull the starter and test it and verify that it extends out and back when the power is removed. AutoZone or any other store can test it as well. Once the starter is ruled out of being the problem then the next step is validating it’s...
Well on the plus side I did verify the block is numbers matching for my car so that’s a plus.
Took my closed chamber heads to the shop to be cleaned up, may take a month to get them done due to them being so busy. Now on to other things to figure out and fix.
I will have to take them in the morning with more light. The walls are pretty clean very little lip mostly carbon. The rock is at least an 1/8 of an inch of movement the other three pistons are solid with no noticeable movement. My guess is they honed the block and put the stock pistons back in...
Well I am back at it again after traveling for work for almost a month.
I am pulling the heads and checking the cam now.
Car runs well at higher rpm, but at idle will backfires when you give it gas fast or will suddenly die if just left running. Once it is above 2500 it acts fine.
Just found...
It’s a 3v intake, will work on 2v or 4v head. The intake has material at the bottom to make sure gaskets will seal. If it was a 2V intake will have a gap at the bottom due to port size difference.
The smaller intake runners are to help lower rpm velocities for more streetable power. When I...
Well I couldn’t see anything with the bore scope. The leak down test showed blow by on the rings.
I decided to pull the intake and check everything out. Since I had the intake off I might as well change it out. There is a 29 pound difference in weight between intakes.
I have more questions now...
Still working on the mustang, but going slower than expected. Had a few things pop up that are new.
I found I have low compression on cylinder 8. Maybe the cause of my back fire .
My toploader pops out of second gear. I aM going to try and adjust the linkage and see if that fixes it.
If it...
I rebuilt mine with the factory style replacement shell. I would do it differently now, I would go with a vintage air or a classic air unit. Theses units are all electric and are made for modern refrigerants. With the factory style I uses a new heater core but did not replace the vacuum servos...
Also quick tip, with the aluminum valve cover and cork gasket I had to get new bolts for the valve covers due to the added thickness. Stock bolts are 1/4-20x 1/2”. They use a split lock collar. I ended up using 1/4-20 x 3/4 SS Allen headed bolts to make it work.
Was going to do the electric water pump and found my timing cover is pretty worn. So it will have to be replaced be fore I can do the swap. Also need another alternator bracket to modify to make work with the electric pump. So just a valve cover upgrade and outing int all back together for now...
My glovebox electrical panel is ready to install. The three fuse block are left to right, battery powered, lights switch powered, ignition switch powered.
The leds in center of the blocks light up if fuse is blown.
Will update once installed .