My 1973 project daily driver

[JDuvall]

Well found the issue with the blow by and low compression. Now I need to check the head for leaking valves.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Well found the issue with the blow by and low compression. Now I need to check the head for leaking valves.

If you're pointing out the piston rock, it actually appears about normal...can you supply good photos of the cylinder wall?

 

[JDuvall]

If you're pointing out the piston rock, it actually appears about normal...can you supply good photos of the cylinder wall?

I will have to take them in the morning with more light. The walls are pretty clean very little lip mostly carbon. The rock is at least an 1/8 of an inch of movement the other three pistons are solid with no noticeable movement. My guess is they honed the block and put the stock pistons back in with new rings.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

If your oil pan is dropped slide a feeler gauge between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall when the piston is at/near TDC. Compare the reading to the "normal" cylinders.

 

[Sheriff41]

Ford didn't use gaskets on the exhaust manifolds.

 

[JDuvall]

Well on the plus side I did verify the block is numbers matching for my car so that’s a plus.
Took my closed chamber heads to the shop to be cleaned up, may take a month to get them done due to them being so busy. Now on to other things to figure out and fix.

 

[JDuvall]

So I pull the engine and trans out today. Found out I have a number matching transmission as well. My next decision is do I want risk the block and transmission hot rodding them? Goal is 500-600Hp. Or do I get a different engine and build it up instead?
What is everyone’s thoughts?

 

[Sheriff41]

Build what you have unless you plan to restore your car to concours condition in the future.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

500+ HP will be work perfectly fine with your Cleveland. Work with a trusted machine shop, they will check block integrity and offer their recommendations on parts.
Many of us on the forum have delt with well built Clevelands and will be happy to offer our guidance.

 

[giantpune]

I like how the title of the thread says "daily driver" and OP wants 600HP. Those two usually dont go together with the older pushrod carburated motors. You end up having to run big cams and make decisions that sacrifice drivability all so you can hit that peak HP number way up at redline.

Whatever route you go with, I vote try to use your existing block and transmission. There isn't much else from the motor you're gonna be reusing for a 600HP build. Transmission can be built to handle all the power you can throw at it.

 

[JDuvall]

I like how the title of the thread says "daily driver" and OP wants 600HP. Those two usually dont go together with the older pushrod carburated motors. You end up having to run big cams and make decisions that sacrifice drivability all so you can hit that peak HP number way up at redline.

Whatever route you go with, I vote try to use your existing block and transmission. There isn't much else from the motor you're gonna be reusing for a 600HP build. Transmission can be built to handle all the power you can throw at it.

I know it’s possible to do the 500-600 all motor, but you are correct there will be sacrifices to be made to street ability. I may go with a power adder blower or nitrous to have it a little more street-able.
If I stay with the original block it will be a 408 stroker build. My thoughts were possibly going to 429/460 build more cubes more horses power route and saving the block and trans for later use if I want it back to stock. I don’t want to cut the car up.
Right now I am going through all my options.
I greatly appreciate everyone’s advice and suggestions!

 

[giantpune]

I know it’s possible to do the 500-600 all motor, but you are correct there will be sacrifices to be made to street ability. I may go with a power adder blower or nitrous to have it a little more street-able.
If I stay with the original block it will be a 408 stroker build. My thoughts were possibly going to 429/460 build more cubes more horses power route and saving the block and trans for later use if I want it back to stock. I don’t want to cut the car up.
Right now I am going through all my options.
I greatly appreciate everyone’s advice and suggestions!

Swapping to a whole different family of motor will get pricey. Everything that bolts to the outside of the engine will need replaced.

I may catch a lot of flac for even suggesting such a thing around here, but if you're gonna replace the drivetrain with something else anyways, those "LS Swap it, bro" bros make a good point. You can easily hit 600HP and still have good street manners.

 

[JDuvall]

Swapping to a whole different family of motor will get pricey. Everything that bolts to the outside of the engine will need replaced.

I may catch a lot of flac for even suggesting such a thing around here, but if you're gonna replace the drivetrain with something else anyways, those "LS Swap it, bro" bros make a good point. You can easily hit 600HP and still have good street manners.

I appreciate the suggestion as you are correct the LS and 600hp is possible. I am not a big LS fan as there are many ways to make the same power with fords. It Is a great engine, but has be come the 350/350 of todays time. The 429/460 family of engines can make a lot of power without a lot of changes as they came in the 1971. If I was wanting to go modern there is the 7.3L it is getting a lot of aftermarket support. The 7.3L would take the same amount of work as the LS to make it work in the car and make the power.
I am weighing all the options. I could go with an aftermarket Cleveland block and get 425 cubic inches as well. There are a lot of options.

 

[Ripper679]

I'm running a 408 stroker in my build. Making just north of 550hp. There I ran two new stainless fuel lines (one feed and one return) right next to each other in the stock routing location for the FiTech fiel injection. Attached a skatter shield and went with a TKX 5 speed manual transmission. Bought the entire conversion kit from Modern Driveline (pedal, clutch, skattershield, the whole kit.... verrrry nice and straightforward). That 5th gear is sweet on the highway. Couple that setup with a new gas tank... Aeromotive makes one with the stealth fuel pump already inside for the fuel injection (it's also bad ***.... plug and play with feed and return lines in stock locations) and a big radiator with dual electric fans...
You have a VERY STREETABLE CAR. Even in on hot California days in traffic.... no issues. 550 horspower is easy to get out of a 408 stroker, a good engine shop should be able to do that in their sleep. It's a good square motor and is quite happy at that power point. Of course as others have mentioned, aluminum heads, new forged internals, intake manifold etc.... will be needed, but your block is good to go if it's in viable shape. Your stock transmission... also a good platform to build off of if overdrive isn't your thing. Your differential will need some love too.... I just went with a 9" with 3.70 on a truetrac "posi". Bigger brakes should be in your future as well with that kind of power. Willwood makes a bolt on kit. I personally dumped the power brakes and kept it manual brakes for a more consistent pedal feel on the track. Do your research here as power and manual brake cylinders are in slightly different locations and use a slightly different pedal. Wilwood everything on my car for simplicity as its a one stop shop.... they make a manual master cylinder with proportioning valve kit that is great. Car stops on a dime. There you have it....
To do it right... 550hp... you are modifying the entire car if you want a TRULY balanced steerable safe ride. This is my setup and she could be a daily driver if California gas wasn't so damn expensive.
I like Mike Myer suspension for what that's worth.
Hope this helps.
This combo just straight works, no power adders necessary to meet your goals. Just time and money.



And money.
Just my .02 from a guy who went down that road.





And more money.







Sell a kidney.

 

[JDuvall]

I'm running a 408 stroker in my build. Making just north of 550hp. There I ran two new stainless fuel lines (one feed and one return) right next to each other in the stock routing location for the FiTech fiel injection. Attached a skatter shield and went with a TKX 5 speed manual transmission. Bought the entire conversion kit from Modern Driveline (pedal, clutch, skattershield, the whole kit.... verrrry nice and straightforward). That 5th gear is sweet on the highway. Couple that setup with a new gas tank... Aeromotive makes one with the stealth fuel pump already inside for the fuel injection (it's also bad ***.... plug and play with feed and return lines in stock locations) and a big radiator with dual electric fans...
You have a VERY STREETABLE CAR. Even in on hot California days in traffic.... no issues. 550 horspower is easy to get out of a 408 stroker, a good engine shop should be able to do that in their sleep. It's a good square motor and is quite happy at that power point. Of course as others have mentioned, aluminum heads, new forged internals, intake manifold etc.... will be needed, but your block is good to go if it's in viable shape. Your stock transmission... also a good platform to build off of if overdrive isn't your thing. Your differential will need some love too.... I just went with a 9" with 3.70 on a truetrac "posi". Bigger brakes should be in your future as well with that kind of power. Willwood makes a bolt on kit. I personally dumped the power brakes and kept it manual brakes for a more consistent pedal feel on the track. Do your research here as power and manual brake cylinders are in slightly different locations and use a slightly different pedal. Wilwood everything on my car for simplicity as its a one stop shop.... they make a manual master cylinder with proportioning valve kit that is great. Car stops on a dime. There you have it....
To do it right... 550hp... you are modifying the entire car if you want a TRULY balanced steerable safe ride. This is my setup and she could be a daily driver if California gas wasn't so damn expensive.
I like Mike Myer suspension for what that's worth.
Hope this helps.
This combo just straight works, no power adders necessary to meet your goals. Just time and money.



And money.
Just my .02 from a guy who went down that road.





And more money.







Sell a kidney.

Thank you Ripper679, this is what I was looking for! And luckily I have two kidneys so I should be all set.

 

[JDuvall]

500+ HP will be work perfectly fine with your Cleveland. Work with a trusted machine shop, they will check block integrity and offer their recommendations on parts.
Many of us on the forum have delt with well built Clevelands and will be happy to offer our guidance.

Cleveland Crush, you are running an aftermarket block correct? Anything you would differently or definitively do again with your Cleveland build?

 

[Cleveland Crush]

My opinions:
1. I currently a Cleveland based Titus block. Concerning after market block- if funds permit stay with a Cleveland based aftermarket block ((Titus/Track Boss/Arrow) vs "Clevor" type (Motorsport/Dart). I don't know your parts inventory but my garage full Cleveland parts and virtually all are a direct fit to a Titus or Track Boss.
2. Cooling has never been a problem at 700HP (or 525HP with my factory 351C); hot summer days in traffic runs 180-190° with a basic Aluminum 3 row rad with a factory style Torino clutch fan.
3. Use the best components you can in your valve train, if you're not well versed in this area, work with someone who is. I would generally suggest hydro roller cams for most hi-po street cars but personally I run solid rollers, currenty Isky EZ Max "bushing" style with excellent success.
4. The TKO 600 has handled everything the engine throws at it. I use a 9-1/2" dual disc diaphram clutch, very light pedal and huge grip even with slicks.
5. At first was a lot of trial and error and experimenting (as with any new engine setup) but it's 100% reliable (maybe 99%, the alternator burned out this summer and got towed home) with perfect street manners.
Good luck with yours, keep us posted.
Chris

 

[Paul M]

When talking 500hp or more in a normally aspirated motor I'd say street ability doesn't come to mind. If you have a 351 and a 4speed, you'd be throwing money away to swap to anything else. I'd stick with what I've got. You can restore it with some goodies to get it going and have a decent resale value, or you can spend a small fortune on swaps and fancy parts never gaining any resale value. I went with a nicely built 351 4v stock heads and modded my tranny to hold 500hp. This car rips, Clevelands are pricey however they are worth it.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Many factory rated classic muscle cars (well below 500 horse) display far worse street manners than well built 500++ HP hot rods. Depends on the tune and setup not the particular power level.

 

[Ripper679]

+1. Every hot rod I have ever had has been over 500 hp. All STREETABLE.
It depends on the build.
A 408 making 550 horspower is like 1.34 hp per cylinder. That's actually quite a low number.
550 hp.... using quality parts on the build is all damn day daily driven ok. Have a good radiator and fuel injection.
Be happy.