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Howdy and welcome from Tejas!

I understand. Its not for everyone. I had several bad experiences on eBay but their return policies are favorable to the buyers. I've managed a good number of NOS or used parts. My NOS fuel tank sender being one......for a price but it worked and saved me much grief!

I took it in the shorts buying all the separate components. I still had to transfer all the vacuum components and it was nightmarish. I had to drill new holes for the evap core and the clamshell still didn’t close together! THEN I found out that CAA sold the complete set. I couldn’t return...

What are you doing to the clamshell? Did you buy individual components to assemble your self? If so, send it back. It is doubtful that the evaporator core will fit correctly as mine did not. Anyway if you are going back to original factory configuration, Classic Auto Air has a complete...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175558394966?fits=Year%3A1971%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item28e0188456:g:xGMAAOSw04pjsxXN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsAtZWSlOl3KUOgputYc8DxxgemufSoaHrflwl78%2B8FjRk3Gx9twtfkYS31HCv7175ca5Ch38Tl8GD%2BusMkEKtV2a4J7MlympzmXY7rjEnvilKbrrnTD0SpzzOLjWsNhSKbjFNORyR3gDCba8KU5%2FwyTmc3VM2w...

Howdy and welcome from Texas! Good luck with the AOD!

Speedway Motors, Summit Racing, CJ Pony all have them. Do not expect that your local auto parts stores will carry them. They stock parts for modern vehicles.

I used a Classic Auto Air replacement system to replace the original stock system. The modern compressor used the original belt from the crank to the compressor and the manual tensioner pulley. It has the exact same configuration that yours has.

Found this on the net from our blog before I was a member. Very good info!

Do you have the vacuum schematic for the plenum vacuum motors?

was this panel complete? Did you have to transfer any parts from you old panel?

When driving modern cars or trucks, I always use OEM parts as the aftermarket parts usually wont work or if they do, they wont last. When replacing my braking system on my 72 Mach 1, the power booster disintrigrated when I removed it. There is no way I would use a NOS on a safety item like...

Be careful with the plenum mounting screws! They may be a bit too long and poke thru your hood. The screw holes in the plenum do not all match up so you’ll have to drill 3 new holes in the hood. There is one screw at the center of the plenum just in front of the air cleaner hole where the...

I did exactly that with the pressure line at the power steering pump. Works great!

The crank flange is not in contact with the rear of the block and spins free in the bell housing. putting sealer on the flexplate bolts would be moot.

I wanted a little more pep for my pony. This stang did not have the performance suspension as it is an H code as built. I dont plan on going to the strip nor do I plan on losing control, totaling my babe and getting myself killed. The HP is there if I need it but I want to go balls to the...

Nope! I could still use any possible cause.....I have a functioning PCV system. The crank is part of an Eagle/Mahle system. The oil is accumulating at the bottom of the bell housing. It appears that the oil pan is NOT leaking......

There are more shops around but again what quality of work can I expect? The dyno guy could have performed the build but it would have taken many months to complete. I can rebuild an engine and bring it back to spec but building a hot rod engine with performance parts is not my forte. I do...

The dyno results were 475 HP at 4500 RPM and torque 476 ft/lbs at 5800 RPM. The sweet spot is at 5200 RPM. It actually exceeded my expectations. One of the very few things that went right!

Yes, I do have a fully functional PCV system. The oil pan is a Canton Racing expanded capacity flat bottom at the sump. Capacity is 6 quarts. Currently have 6 quarts of Comp Cams 10W-40 break-in oil and a K&N filter.