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In the one photo I looked at three of the cylinders are getting a too rich air/fuel micture, hence the black sooty deposit on the spark plug insulator and the head's combustion chambers and valves - except for the combustion shamber with the very white spark plug. For that cylinder it is also...

Good to know. Thank you!

So, it is a little rough here and there. I bet everyone in this forum has seen worse. The cool part is you get to see the Mustang become transformed into its original (or better) condition re: it being a thing of beauty. Step by painful step. I hope you post progress photos and descriptions...

That is quite a gift you provided to your fellow enthusiasts. I will find this to be useful, and will gladly provide it to others in need of the information. I have little to compare it to, but when I do come across other info that can be used to validate the layouts you provided i will do so...

There are a few things that will cause a bog on acceleration, and other issues that will cause somewhat related performance issues. If the hesitation is occurring only when the engine has been running a while, and not when it is warming up or recently warmed up, it is possible you are getting...

I neglected to provide a link to a video Lynda and I did re: installing a Pertronix unit on a stock distributor for our 73 Mustang's 302 2v engine. The only reason I installed the Pertronix unit was because a colleague in Brazil asked if I could show him how they are installed. Installing a...

I have not found any factory schematics (aka calibrations) for engine vacuum connections prior to 1973. But, the good folks at Mustang Barn took the time to put together some decent schematics for 1967 - 1972 Mustangs. With their knowledge and approval I assembled all of their schematics into...

There are a lot of choices re: what kind of coolant recovery (overflow) container to use. I decided to use the stainless steel design tank from CJ Pony Parts. In a post earlier in this thread 73MustangCoupe referenced me and provided a link to my YouTube video showing how I installed the...

In the event you determine mechanical repairs are needed for the York compressor (or replacement with a rebuilt unit), I suggest you contact the Original Air Group (a division of Classic Air Conditioning). Original Air specializes in helping folks with parts for older A/C systems. I have found...

Before doing an engine flush I would be doing a baseline compression test. Then you can try to do an engine flush. My "Go To" for engine flushing are Seafoam in the crankcase, and separately running ATF in the engine for 20 minutes or so at fast idle (under 2,000 RPM). I would not put any...

No photo of my first Mustang. But, it was a 1969 HardTop (Coupe), Candyapple Red, C4 auto tranny, ARA aftermarket A/C, manual 4 wheel drum brakes, and a powered by a 250 L6 engine. It was a nice hand-me-down from my parents, but back in high school all I could think of is how much I wish it...

It sounds like you are having fun with the newest project. Very cool. As for having made mistakes, as many other responders have already said, we all have. Some have turned out to be "happy mistakes," but the majority for me were learning experiences many other have gone through also - before...

I am curious. What electronic controller did you choose? Can you adjust shift points for the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts electronically? Can you adjust line pressure and/or overall firmness in shifting? I am fine with our AOD upshift points, and firmness, now tha I am running at 39 PSI Throttle...

After I posted a suggestion to check for intake manifold leaks it occurred to me I have said this before, but I never really gave a good way to test an intake manifold for leaks. In the past I would hit suspected leakage areas with a small squirt of carb cleaner. If the engine increased in RPM...

As hard as it may be to believe, I have some other things to consider - not my fault. In a post a little above this one Midlife mentioned something about the choke plate positioning, and it triggered me to add to this thread. Blame Midlife! heh heh... Actually, I feel badly that I did not...

There are a few other things that will allow a powertrain to have a louder than usual "clunk" when going into gear. The high idle speed in Neutral/Park is going to contribute to the problem. There should be a drop in RPM when placing an idling engine into a forward or reverse gear. A 400 RPM...

In reading a lot about the original style Pertronix, if you use the oem ignition coil the Pertronix module positive lead needs to be connected to a 12 volt switched voltage source. In that case, yes, the Circuit #640 Red With Yellow Striped wire that feeds the carburetor Throttle Position...

Wow... His site is full of some really good info. Thx for sharing.

Pleased be aware the refrigerant oil for R-12 is not the same, nor is it compatible with the refrigerant oil needed by R134 systems. If you simply began to use R134 without draining the old oil out, and using the proper R134 compliant oil you will have problems.

Our 73 Mustangs were both non-A/C cars. I added Classic Air A/C kits on both, which uses R134. I was skeptical at first about how well the R134 would work, but it does a fine job. You ought to be able to covert to R134 just fine, but you must remove any and all of the R-12 compatible...