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If I remember the Derale fan is rated for 8,000 RPM. That seems like a good safety margin.

I also have the Hayden-Derale clutch/fan setup on my H code 351c. I recommend using all grade 8 fasteners for the installation..

Also keep in mind that undercoating is needed to protect the area under the front fender where there is no wheel house from road stone dings.

IMHO the Eastwood inside frame spay can with the hose is also an adventure. The hose works well...until it clogs. I advise shaking the can well before each use.

I am in Bayville, NJ and belong to Sentimental Cruisers in Lacey, NJ. If you are at any shows in the Toms River area, it would be great to say hello.

I was more worried about the inside of the frame rails than the floor pans. I wire brushed the floor pans inside and outside and painted them with black enamel. The wheel wells were coated with rubberized undercoating. Finally, the inside of the frame rails and doors was sprayed with Eastwood...

My guess this is to clear the trans tunnel reinforcement plate which is used only on the convertibles.

Here is the link to the rebuild instructions: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/content/1970-kelsey-hayes-brake-pressure-differential-valve-rebuild

Here is the info on the kit I used: 1970+ Ford Disc Brake Pressure Differential and Control Valve Kit 2B257-Kit-2 Muscle Car Research LLC https://www.musclecarresearch.com 2B257-Kit-2 NPD https://www.npdlink.com/ 2B257-Kit-2

R&R is pretty straight forward with Classic Tube pre bent lines. Worse case you will have to cut the old lines at the fitting and use a stripped bolt head remover to remove any stuck fittings. You might also consider rebuilding the distribution block/proportioning valve as well.

Just received an email from RockAuto. They have awesome closeout prices on 71-73 Mustang engine parts and accessories. Shop now while they are still available.

I ultimately had to replace the passenger side turn down tip to align it correctly.

I believe the driver side tailpipes are all bent to fit around staggered shocks. They will fit with non staggered shocks if you pay VERY close attention the alignment around the driver side shock absorber and the rear sway bar.

I have had good luck mounting the Pertronix Flame-Thrower module in the stock distributor and purchasing a replacement vacuum advance plate and vacuum advance canister from Rock Auto. At that time these replacement parts cost around $30. each.

Ride harshness is also a function of wheel diameter. The 14 inch wheels will usually give you a a softer ride. I am running 14 x 7 inch OEM steel wheels and the older Gas-A-Jus shocks all around. The ride is firm but not harsh.

You might consider checking the oil consumption, oil pressure at highway RPMs and compression for further clues to the actual mileage.

My rear upper shock mounts were also the victim of the previous owner's air shocks. I had 12ga (1/8" thick) plates that covered the entire top of the recess (bottom of the shock mount) welded in by a fab shop. This might be overkill, but they have held up well for over 20 years. I also recommend...

I used Dorman #66272 Copper Washers on the caliper hose fittings. It seems like they do not come in all rebuild kits.

If you have some extra energy, you can shoot some Rust-Oleum Silver High Temperature Paint on the calipers. It sells for around $7.00 at Home Depot and is good for 1200 degrees F. Be sure to wire brush them and remove all grease and oil before painting.

The caliper seal is between the "O" ring and the piston so both should be replaced during a rebuild. Pay particular attention to cleaning the "O" ring groove or it will be very difficult to re-install the piston. You might also consider replacing the bleeder valves. I believe Rock Auto/Dorman...