Search results

Just throwing this out there, OTC4573 is my go to tool for doing valve seals on the car, it will work well on single springs or single with a damper spring.

mach1dave, basstrix method is closer to what the shop manual states. Granted when I install the oil seal on the valve, the valve is probably going to be resting on the piston, then when the seal is installed, you can lift the valve to the seated position while holding the seal down and the...

Yes it can be done mach1 dave. You will need some specialty tools and some special precautions. should take about 2 hours per side. You will need a valve spring compressor, either OEM lever type or handwheel adjustable type or both. you should have a strong stick magnet to catch the valve...

Basstrix, I had a similar experience with my stock {power by Ford} rocker covers. I am running .588'' lift with Scorpion roller rockers. Was able to use the 1636 rocker gaskets that Hemikiller posted up, they are .250'' with a steel core sandwiched in the middle. I also had to do a little dremel...

Jaysay, You might be able to get it broke free by double nutting that broken screw from the bottom (with the distributor out ), as I recall those screws are quite long. worth an attempt before drilling.

I stand corrected.

Jaysay, Couple of things here about the level of the float bowl going down. Yes, it can be fuel percolation, that can be a very real situation, but don't mistake percolation for evaporation, especially with today's fuels, do you have summer blend or winter blend ? , ethanol blend or not ?. How...

Q1SVT, This just in, upper @ 1.520'' and lower @ 0.894'' with casting # C9aa-6394- a (164 tooth aluminum bellhousing.

Jasay, As simple as your points type distributor seems, there is an awful lot that that has to happen inside there to give you good spark intensity and correct base timing, vacuum advance and mechanical advance. Carcrazy73 suggests checking the points plate assembly and I agree that it needs to...

Q1svt, looking at the picture you provided, I had nowhere close to that kind of clearance. As I remember, the rubber of the boot was touching the right side of the opening. I gained maybe 1/8'' by loosening both the motor mounts and perches and prying the engine over in an effort to gain...

Q1svt, Really? This forum is quite tame in comparison to the Harley shovelhead forum I am also on and I have pretty thick skin. One thing that I have learned about being on forums is we never know each others skill levels until we have several personal interactions on the forum, and after that...

I am coming up with 1.410'' for both on my OEM cast iron unit as measured with dial caliper and bell sitting on the bench. For some reason the cast iron and it's aluminum counterpart are different dimensions in this area and I had to build spacers when I switched to aluminum. As long as you are...

1971stang, Before you remove the pulley, pay particular attention to the relationship between the pulley face and the pump shaft, I usually measure with a dial caliper and record this, have even seen some past flush. Failure to do this can result belt squealing.

Omie01, Been watching this one for a while now and a few things are pretty concerning to me as far as what you propose to do with your engine. Pay particular attention to what Q1svt is trying to tell you about your DYNAMIC compression ratio and then add your transmission , rear axle ratio AND...

MKSpeedlab makes some pretty good points here , here is what I would add to that. When our cars were built, they were pretty simple, with low energy ignition and charging systems, now add a high energy ignition and for good measure lets install a 100 or 150 amp  charging system because we had...

Great plan Tony, I tried to keep my Dynamic compression ratio to a maximum of 8.2 to1. I am sure you are already all over this, as you are usually one step ahead of me. Also take into account your current axle ratio and tire size, no pingy is a good thingy. Boilermaster

Great news Tony, Just out of curiosity what head gaskets are shown in the pictures you posted ?  In previous messages you had talked about possibly bumping the compression a very little bit, can you possibly go with a thinner head gasket, say.010 '' less  ?   

Tony, There is nothing worse than coolant on the garage floor, when my engine was installed, I put a petcock in each of the block drains and simply attach a hose to the petcock to drain. with the Cleveland blocks, you will never get every last drop out unless you remove the thermostat and...

Tony-muscle, Hoping you dodged a bullet there, I would put more faith in a leakdown test than a compression test, even an airhold test on that cylinder compared to the others. Either ditch the partial turkey pan or go with a full one, as the way you have it now is not the risk of future gasket...

Bufus, If it was mine I would attach a bump starter switch and see if I am getting full cam lobe lift at each rocker arm, if ok then see if i can spin each pushrod when at base circle of the cam, by those two tests you will be able to tell if you have a wiped out cam lobe or bent pushrod. Also...