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The series on rebuilding Lake Speed Sr's Cup engine is great. The conversation they had about the changes in piston and rod technology with Lake Speed Jr. and the guy from CP pistons is really good too.

Lowered prices...

These are extras I'll never use and stuff I don't need. 1) Pair of rear splash guards (at the hinge pillar), D1ZB numbers I assume these are off of a MI car so they are nasty, $30 shipped in lower 48. 2) Pair of chrome front fender end trim pieces, chrome seems ok except one has a nice big...

At the top of this page Rich mentions Gelsi's, I can remember walking through that yard when I was in high school looking for parts for my car. I found out about it from an ad in Mustang Monthly magazine. That was over 30 years ago. Wow....

Yes, with the offset adapter ring removed the air cleaner to hood seal is now centered on the hood plenum opening if you are using engine mounts that locate the engine in the spot as the original mounts.

Where are you located? This is about the going rate for a marine intake with a later date code...

Not sure if you are aware- the ram air air cleaner base for a 429 is different than the aftermarket version- the aftermarket version is for a small block which sits closer to the firewall and requires the seal to be offset forward to line up with the hole in the hood plenum. I messed around...

I screwed the floor pan to the inner rocker with self-tapping sheet metal screws to keep it flush. I think I popped holes every 2" or so in the floor pan flange and put a screw in every other hole, then welded up the holes as I pulled the screws out.

Engine Masters has done an oil filter comparison, not sure of the episode info. It contained some good info I thought.

If you mainly use it for repair then to me the 2-post is a no-brainer. I have worked on stuff with a drive-on lift and I did not care for it. I don't like having to work around the ramps and always seem to hit my head on them when they are up. Just my $0.02...

Deluxe on top, handle for standard panels is on the bottom

Chuck, $400-$600 depending on how generous you are feeling. My random thoughts: 1) 69 is too early for a thick bulkhead block. 2) Some early T-birds used a really weird crank-driven PS pump (which is hard to find parts for) and a shorter than normal water pump which will cost extra to convert...

I think so? I'm almost positive but I have been wrong before... As far as I know all big block (385 series) bells are the same depth, and I think that other truck bells for the 351M/400 would be the same depth as well, as long as it was out of a truck. A truck bell would have a 'T' as the third...

The major difference between late model truck bells and the correct, late-60's car bellhousing is the clutch fork pivot. At some point in the 70's they switched from the simple 90* bracket with a slot for the fork spring to a wedge. The bolt holes are the same though, so you can switch the wedge...

Not mine, but this is a decent deal...

Looking great! Can you provide some more info on the Opentracker clutch linkage parts? Does this modify the equalizer bar pivots from nylon to spherical bearings as well? I have heim joints on my links (pedal to bar and bar to fork) but didn't think about the bar pivots themselves...

That's sharp.

If the steering wheel has not been sold I will take it. Thanks!

PM'd you...

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