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Thanks! I think I have both yokes. Can anyone measure their FMX driveshaft length? Thank you

We got the oem tooling version (I think from CJ Pony Parts, on sale).  It fit well and looks like should. 

Does anyone know if the driveshaft is the same for a C4 and and FMX behind a 351c (H-code)? Thanks

Hey @Vinnie, please post picture of the work in progress.  I have to repair my cowl hat and could use some inspiration.   Thanks!

Multi-spark ignition was going to be guess for the discrepancy between the timing light tach and the dwell meter tach. @DagGulag I know this thread is years old, but did you ever find the solution.  I have almost exactly the same problem and am getting a little tired of banging my head against...

IMHO, if you want a top-shelf install, talk to @TheRktmn and @midlife first, then figure out the best way to proceed.  In my case, this is what I did before I ever knew about RCCI and Midlife.... My car came with the instrumentation package (center gauges), but only a clock where the tach...

FWIW, the eBay versions don't looks 3D printed to me (albeit, I'm no expert here).  The poster is also claiming: Note: I have no relationship to the eBay poster and am NOT pimping/advocating for their product.  I'm just providing details I find for betterment of our community.

Thanks @secluff !  Having an early-ish '71, I always appreciate whenever anyone shares the historical significance, especially considering that after 50 years there are fewer and fewer of us that remember any of these details.  

@Spike Morelli the only problem I have with drum brakes is when they get wet.  We had an old IHC Travelall when I was a kid.  Whenever it would rain and we hit a puddle, water would get into the drums and make it impossible to stop for a light.  

Ha!  And, I thought we were the only ones who celebrate car birthdays with gifts  :cool:

I've been looking for these for a while, but holy crap $255. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-MUSTANG-BOSS-351-WINDSHIELD-FENDER-FILLERS/254827475338?hash=item3b54e6b18a:g:m2wAAOSwNFpf9ixt

I've found that if you're looking for a cruiser (i.e. not road racing, autocross, etc.), the stock front disk/rear drum setup works just fine for the weight of the car.  As was pointed out above, most of the braking is done up front so changing to rear disc (albeit a fun project) isn't going to...

You didn't mention if this had ram air.  If so, I'd be interested. Thanks, Nick

Makes total sense @kiko619.   Thanks, Nick

Thanks @Don C!  I definitely don't like buying parts I don't need (it takes away from the budget for parts I do need)  :classic_laugh: The sector shaft isn't moving.  The movement is definitely between the Pitman arm and the drag link.  I'll take another look, but it sure sounds like Pitman...

With the engine off, one wheel on the ground, I get about 1 inch of jiggle with my hands at 9 and 3 on the off-the-ground wheel.  I'm sure that's contributing to my car's waywardness.  When I get under the car, I can see that the slop is coming from where the drag link connects to the Pitman...

@Bentworker you are my hero!  This was perfect. Thanks so much, Nick

Thanks a ton @Bentworker!  The PO ran it up the tunnel and tied it off to the lockout arm on the steering column.  It touched the exhaust in two places. Nick

I noticed that the PO ran the speedo cable so that it would touch the exhaust in two places.  I have a replacement cable, but don't see an obvious way of routing the cable away from the exhaust.  Does anyone have any pictures on speedo cable routing they can share?   Thanks, Nick

Ah, got it @3514boltstang.  I'm looking for deluxe door panels.  Thanks