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The rubber that you have to worry about is between the two brackets. You'll need to inspect it for deterioration and delamination. The rubber that you show in your picture is just flash from the manufacturing process and has nothing to do with the performance of the mount.

Get a 4-point 3/8" socket. You may have to buy a whole set of drain plug sockets to just get that one socket. Or, weld a couple of 3/8 drive sockets together to make your own tool.

HBA-CF isn't shown in my parts catalog, nor StangerSite's pump decoder: https://www.stangerssite.com/FP_IDchart.html nor the Fordification site: https://www.fordification.com/mpc/sec30/sec36-1/sec36-1_12.htm There are several different reservoirs for the different pump codes in the parts...

Several members have replaced the original gauges with new aftermarket gauges. Search the forum for 'new gauges', here's an example of what you can find https://7173mustangs.com/threads/center-gauges-pics.44186/#post-445469

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/my-dash-center-section.34419/

The picture is of the headlight switch angle adapter, adapts the line of the switch to the angle of the back of the dash. You should have another one that has two holes, for the wiper switch and the lighter. They are shown on page E2Z-205-1 of the 71-72 Electrical Assembly Manual.

I got one from NAPA several years ago. https://www.napaonline.com/en/shop/replacement-parts/brakes/brake-boosters/325626278

Unfortunately, new does not mean good. The ignition circuit has a built-in resistor. The portion of the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the coil (red with light green stripe) that is under the dash is a resistor wire that should measure around 1.4 ohms. It will reduce the voltage to...

The stock coil with the 1.4 ohm resistor wire and 1.4 ohm primary resistance coil draws about 4.3 amps with the engine not running, ignition on, and points closed. When the engine is running it draws about 2.4 amps. The wire to the coil is not suitable for powering the choke, as the portion...

It's a brace that goes from the bottom of the front fender to the radiator core support. It's shown in the Body Assembly Manual, N-105 page 13

It is hot with the ignition in run or accessory. Midlife also has them http://midlifeharness.com/products.html

The only circuit that is common to all of your gremlins is the ground circuit. I would start there, making sure your battery is properly grounded to the chassis and engine. If a bulb is not properly grounded it will seek a ground through other nearby circuits, causing them to light up, also.

The reference number is FF162

bkdunha posted a thread several years ago with the hardware listings https://7173mustangs.com/threads/71-73-hardware-information.23685/ It looks like they're 8-18x3/4 flange (truss) round head phillips screws

You may be pushing the clip in the wrong place. Where you need to push it in is as close to the speedometer that you can. The notch that hooks onto the speedometer housing is right against the housing and the clip has to be pushed over about an 1/8 of an inch at the housing.

When the engine is running the voltage varies depending on if the points are closed or open, or in the case of an electronic ignition if ground is being applied to the negative coil terminal, or not. Using a regular voltmeter set to read DC volts won't work very well when the engine is running...

The plug to the tachometer will have a re with light green stripe wire on both sides of the plug. You might want to download the wiring diagrams from our Wiki, it will make it easy to determine what plugs are for, based on wire color codes...

I came across this today, a paint that is supposed to look like dichromate plating. Yellow dichromate plating is somewhat of a time-consuming process, requiring the part to be zinc plated before dipping it in the dichromate solution, so this may be a viable alternative. Because it is from...

The procedure for replacing it with the crankshaft in the engine is given in the Ford Shop Manual, volume 2, page 21-21-20. You can get a downloadable PDF version of the manual from Forel Publishing or from most Mustang parts suppliers on a USB flash drive.

The diagrams in post #5 of this thread should help you: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/alternator-and-regulator-wiring.40107/#post-409306