Search results

For a 351C the rocker arm to cylinder head fulcrum bolts should be torqued to 18-25 ft.lbs. 5 ft.lbs. is what the rocker arm cover bolts are tightened to. Make sure the fulcrum is installed correctly in the rocker arm and the slot in the cylinder head. Tighten the bolt when the valve is closed.

One of the main causes of a differential seal leak is a problem in the differential, usually the pinion bearing going out or loose.

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/starter-solenoid-mpn-sw7663.html?gclid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA%3A%20Starting%20%26%20Charging%20%7C%20YMM%20%7C%2010%25-Up%20%7C%20tROAS%3D%20706.215%25&...

I'm ready to start on mine, replacing the brake and fuel lines, and have the materials setting in the shop. I'm using copper nickel on them, never have to worry about rust and corrosion inside the lines, no worries about getting the stainless steel flares to seal, easy to work with and bend...

Good point, but any imperfection or dirt on the rim of the master cylinder will allow air (and moisture) in. Improperly storing bottles or cans of brake (loose or missing caps) will let the brake fluid suck in moisture. Just pouring brake fluid into the master cylinder will add a little...

I thought I would take a look at historic prices. The prices of those valve covers in 1998 were $100 and $110, in 2020 they were both $190. So, the prices doubled in 22 years, and then doubled again in 4 years. DAMN!!!

The vent hole in the cap is the culprit. Every time the atmospheric pressure or temperature changes the cap 'breathes'. Because regular brake fluid is hygroscopic it pulls the moisture out of the air.

Ford still sells valve covers for Clevelands in their Performance Parts Catalog. A little pricey, though, $350 for black and $425 for polished aluminum https://performanceparts.ford.com/category/72/Valve-Covers

No, I just used 5/8-11 UNC grade B7 threaded rod. The ACME threads would be a good idea for one that would see frequent use. I don't plan on using mine more than a few times. It has minimal side loads as the shock mount rotates as the spring is compressed, and the thrust bearing is thick enough...

You can build your own with the plans from Daze Cars: https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html I built mine with a longer threaded rod, which I had to get from Fastenall rather than using the ungraded rods available from the local hardware stores. I also used a thrust bearing, rather than...

For those of you that have access to Animal Planet, the last part of this episode of Lone Star Law shows an investigation into a personal watercraft explosion that was a result of using worm clamps. It starts with 5:30 left of the episode...

You might try searching for rod clamps, that's the closest I can come up with.

That's my question, too. All of these cars came with cast iron exhaust manifolds.

I agree, gear clamps are bad enough when they're out in the open where you can keep an eye on them, a disaster waiting to happen when they're in a place where you can't see them. The rubber will creep out from under the clamps, meaning that the clamps have to be retightened periodically...

I agree, this is most likely a structural piece. Most everything on a unibody car is. You can see how that it is more than just a simple sheet metal stamping in this clip from the assembly manual. It is composed of two pieces with bends for rigidity.

Dorman has a large selection of dust boots, you might be able to find something that will work, based on size, not application. It looks like all of the ones in their catalog are also available from Amazon: https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=dust+boots...

According to my hardware list, it's 11/16"x18, but I agree with you, I don't think it will clean up enough to be usable, not worth the risk. $77 for a new one from NPD.

I received this tech tip from Eastwood today, it looks like their rust remover product works well without having to soak the rusted part for a lengthy period of time. It also looks like what rust it doesn't remove is converted to zinc phosphate. I remember seeing it in their online catalog, but...

https://autobodysource.com/never-spray-an-e-coat-without-priming-heres-why/

+1 on the molasses, works very well. One more thing not to do though, don't put aluminum or zinc (pot metal) in it.