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You might try what this fellow member came up with: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/austin-vert-finds-good-door-rubber-bellows.25681/#comment-262945 Then, there's these: https://www.cjponyparts.com/detroit-speed-door-jamb-wiring-boot-kit/p/DJBK-V/ And then there's these from LMC Truck...

I am using Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on places that are easily accessible, it is both a rust converter and a primer. On less accessible places I am using Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, it also converts rust and coats it. It comes with both a regular spray nozzle and a flexible tube that has a...

You can check the resistance of the sending unit with a multi meter. Remove the connector from the sending unit, connect one lead of the multimeter to the stud on the sending unit and the other lead to a good ground on the engine block. Set the meter to the 200 ohms position. With the engine...

These may help https://7173mustangs.com/threads/steering-column-exploded-view.37702/

the illustrations in Post #5 in this thread should help https://7173mustangs.com/threads/alternator-and-regulator-wiring.40107/#post-409306

Your only option may be to buy sintered iron/copper (BB-16) bar stock and have it machined to size

You can check out bronze bushing manufacturers. They have off-the shelf bushings that are very close to the size you listed. Plus, most will custom machine them. This is likely what the rebuilders are doing. Here is an example...

This subject has been discussed in the past on this forum. I thought that this article is worth bringing it up again. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/ignition-tech-where-to-hook-up-your-vacuum-advance-distributor/

I agree, if you take a carbureted engine with a lumpy cam and an LSA of 110º, or less, and convert it to EFI you'll likely lose horsepower as well as driveability and won't be happy with the results. I haven't looked up the specs on an LS, but I'll bet the LSA is around 115º. I have an...

I agree, EFI will not significantly increase horsepower, and the cost per horsepower gained is very high. This link is for an older Holley carburetor/Holley Terminator EFI dyno comparison on Engine Masters. The carburetor edges out the EFI in their ranking. If you're replacing an existing...

The cables will get warm during a prolonged cranking, but shouldn't get hot. It sounds like a bad starter to me, could be either electrical or mechanical, preventing the starter from spinning, or even something wrong with the engine, like hydrostatic lock. You might try pulling all the spark...

Yes, dc voltage, probably 20v on your digital meter. Here is a tutorial on using multimeters for car diagnostics. https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/other/how-to-use-a-multimeter-when-working-on-your-car-a-beginner-s-guide/ar-BB1hr4cj?ocid=msedgntp&pc=U531&cvid=d5beb2c8def14ffaa20d13785512ae41&ei=196

You can look up your car's original spring rates and ride heights to the bottoms of the bumpers in the AMA Specifications manuals. The ride heights are listed on page 2, the key sheet is on page 27. https://7173mustangs.com/threads/1971-73-ama-documents.23433/ The Ford assembly manual shows the...

A lot of work with minimal improvements in function for the 2000. The 2015 suspension is MacPherson strut with ball joints connecting the strut (tension) rod and lower control arm to the MacPherson strut. https://7173mustangs.com/threads/front-suspension.28103/#comment-288567

You can modify the air cleaner base. Here's how one member did it (post #9) https://7173mustangs.com/threads/trouble-with-ram-air-fitting-on-429.41768/#post-419492 There were a couple of others that did it differently, you should be able to find them by searching the forum

Many (more like many, many) years ago I had a '31 Model A pickup that had 16" wheels from a '36 Ford, looked like your father-in-law's.

I don't see any advantage to installing a 2000 front suspension. Now if you were talking about a 2015 and up front suspension you would have my attention and support.

My best guess is that the date is January 17, 1969. The "J" signifies the shape of the rim where the tire bead sets. The MW4 is the manufacturer, Motor Wheel Corporation, the 4 may be their plant or division number...

You are correct, I should have zoomed in on it. I have seen threads pulled out like that, don't remember any in cast iron, though. Hard to imagine someone tightening water pump bolts to that point. Surprised the bolt didn't break first.

That appears to me to be Heli-coil threads, so that bolt hole must have been stripped and repaired with Heli-coil at some time in the past. They should have use Loctite thread sealant/threadlocker on the Heli-coil to lock it in place and prevent leaks.